As a quick check of the fan / relay system, pull the connector off the ECT sensor (sticking up between injectors 2 and 3), and jumper the pins in the connector. This will tell the EEC that the coolant is VERY hot. Turn on the key, and both fans should run. If they both dont run, you have a fan, wiring or relay problem. Normally, if the temp gauge is anywhere near calibrated properly, the pass side fan comes on when the temp gauge gets about 1/2 way up, and the drivers side fan will come on if the gauge continues to climb to 3/4 of the way up or so. If both fans come on with the ECT connector jumpered, I would suspect either a inaccurate temp gauge / bad sender, or the ECT is going bad. Another slight possibility... if that small coolant hose that goes into the pass side of the lower intake manifold is plugged up with crap, or the fitting on the lower is plugged, severely limiting coolant flow to the ECT, it will report a lower than actual temp to the EEC, and the EEC will turn on the fans late.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized