North American Turbocoupe Organization



Cool decision?
GaryS#2 Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I'm really tired of my engine temp going from normal to hot without provoking it.
Has anyone gone to a larger electric or possibly flex fan on this car?
Why would'nt a flex or clutch fan be as good or better than these hokey little power robbing fans?
Grocery Getter/Rice Cooker.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
Are you sure the engine is actually heating up that hot, or could it be a gauge / sender problem or fan turn on problem? When does it get hot? High speed driving, idling / low speed. At low engine speeds, electric fans are more effective than engine driven fans, which are RPM dependant. In most cases, a properly designed and operating electric fan system is superior to an engine driven fan.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Chuck W Offline
Posting Freak
#3
I would rather have an electric fan. My set up in the XR7 is: 5.0l radiator, 180 deg thermo, 205 deg fan switch and I bypassed the module and am just using a relay to run the fan. While driving temp stays 170-180 deg. In traffic and such it gets to 205-210 deg, then the fan kicks on and cools the motor back to 180 deg. I didn't like the stock fan switch turn on of 225-230 deg....it made me cringe watching the gauge...so I hunted down the lower temp 205 one. The electric fans actually aren't power robbing...it's the flex fans that are.....

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The Cat in the birdcage...
83 TC Clone, 85 Mercury LTS, 97 Volvo 850 T5 Turbo, 78 Volvo 240, 93 F150
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GaryS#2 Offline
Posting Freak
#4
It happens as I exit the freeway into town and am cruising 30mph.I have a 160 thermo and a switch on the second fan.So by power robbing I mean electrically running both fans, as well as stereo on etc.I think 1 big electric fan would be better for both air flow and current draw.Looking around the bone yards I found a nice bigger fan in a Tauras but would need a fan shroud as well.I was also thinking of a bigger hood scoop over the intercooler/turbo.That means finding an old hood to play with.Hmmmm.
Grocery Getter/Rice Cooker.
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methos Offline
Senior Member
#5
if you really want to get some air flow out of one fan... get the PermaCool shroudless high performance... the 14" fan flows 2900 cfm and only draws like 15 amps... I had a twin set of these on my crown vic and it could go from 220 to 160 in a matter of just under 2 minutes... they also make a 16" version that doesn't flow as much but has the surface area

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88TC - 5speed, all options but leather and sunroof
Mods:
Esslinger Prepped head, AiResearch T-3, 3.73 gears, Schneider custom grind cam, chromed rims, dynomax on the duals, and last but not least... new interior
Jason Schaffer
88TC - 5speed, all options but leather and sunroof
Mods: 3.73 Gears
Finally getting it back together.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
Gary, actually a lot of people with single fans like to switch to the TC dual fan setup.
It's good when it works and when the controls are modified to bring the fans on a temperatures lower than what the factory setting are.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine shortly, ported head and
manifolds, polished and cc'd chambers, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, Walbro 190 pump and T-3 for starters. KB subs
and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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