Continuing on designing a BPV

Go here to see some preliminary drawings:
http://ubb.turboford.org/ultimatebb.php?...2;t=022788

I'm only redirecting this because the pics are posted there already...

Let me know what you think...

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)

The designs look good (Thats the kind of stuff I do!) But anyway.. I'd say you should do alot of research on the materials used, and then go from there to find stronger ones. If you want to, I can get your pictures and "fix" them to be more understandable to the common eye. Good luck with everything!

Andrew

I like the idea - but I am stuck on how you are going to get the "body side nipple" machined.... Here is an idea that might save some machining/assembly time...it shows the side nipple pressed into a 1" by .375 deep c'bore. I'd use about .002 interference - shouldn't go anywhere and will minimize distortion on the machined body....6262 should be good for this application, probably use the T8 temper....is it pricey material???

Well - can't get it to paste or attach but I think you might get the idea..

Originally posted by Turboy:
I like the idea - but I am stuck on how you are going to get the "body side nipple" machined.... Here is an idea that might save some machining/assembly time...it shows the side nipple pressed into a 1" by .375 deep c'bore. I'd use about .002 interference - shouldn't go anywhere and will minimize distortion on the machined body....6262 should be good for this application, probably use the T8 temper....is it pricey material???

Well - can't get it to paste or attach but I think you might get the idea..

Yeah, I was planning on making it a press fit on the side nipple. Obviously, the side nipple has to be machine as a separate piece and then inserted. That is also why I'd mill a flat on the main body after the finished turning.

For an initial prototype I was able to get a 3" Diameter by 4.5" long piece of 6061 T6 Aluminum Alloy off of e-bay for $5.50 [Image: biggrin.gif] I'll see how that goes. I originally said I wanted to use 6262 T6/T8 as the alloy...I agree !

Thanks !

Revamp...yeah, I just got that software downloaded yesterday so I've been playing with it for a whole day... [Image: rolleyes.gif]

Thanks !



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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)

You better make a few of them, I'll take one when you have them figured out.

My word is good as long as the price is fair.

I am a machinist(tool and die maker) and I say you can make the valve out of a solid piece, you dont need to machine the side as a seperate piece and press it in. In fact I make valves like this all the time. The only problem I see is with the diaphragm &spring and the whether the vacuum will opreate it correctly.

My 2 cents

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85TC, Custom cold air intake,K&N Cone, Intercooled, Gillis Boost Valve 18PSI, Spearco BPV, Full 3" Exhaust,with a Vortex Muffler, Looking for more Boost! NATO member (Chris Taylor)
86 Camaro, 5.0L, 4bbl, K&N, MSD 6200 6A, Dynomax cat back system, Pace Setter Shorty Headers, I think I will just sell it so as to make room for an 87 TC !

Originally posted by turbobird63:
I am a machinist(tool and die maker) and I say you can make the valve out of a solid piece, you dont need to machine the side as a seperate piece and press it in. In fact I make valves like this all the time. The only problem I see is with the diaphragm &spring and the whether the vacuum will opreate it correctly.

My 2 cents

I've tried to figure out how to machine the side nipple but I'm not sure how to chuck the rod in my lathe sideways in order to do that ??? Would a four jaw hold it sideways ? And even if I did do this how would I turn the main body afterwards with the side nipple on it ????

As far as the vacuum opening it, I think that will all be a function of the spring selected. The Bosch and Forge Valves both work like this. I plan on experimenting in order to find a spring that will allow the valve to open at around 15" of vacuum.

The diaphragm/piston design is not yet determined. The "piston" is actually the blue layer in the first drawing. I haven't determined how to make this piston or out of what material.

In the Forge Valve this piston is actually a rubber piece (insert moulded around metal perhaps ?)

In the attached pic is the BOsch unit (left) and Forge unit (right).

Again, the idea is to come up with something I can make similar to the Forge Valve but for a lot less than $150.00 !

[This message has been edited by Dan E (edited 05-22-2003).]

The big time pistons are made out of matrix composites.

The part with the nipple can be made out of a metal,aluminum, or ceramic matrix composite, and the rubber out of a laminated matrix composite. Basically it's denser metal or rubber. I know 3M develops this, maybe researching their site would help.
http://www.mmm.com

Probly searching their site for "matrix composites" will help you.

Sorry Dan upon further consideration, your best bet would be to press fit or screw in your nipple in order to make your round body.

I am accustomed to running multi-axis and multi-spindled machines, therefore I would be able to mill the body around the nipple.

What you could do is make the valve out of square stock with the nipples as you have shown. You would be able to chuck this up in your 4 jaw chuck. Just layout the centers of each nipple and using a centerdrill locate each center and turn each nipple. You could therefore have the valve as a solid piece except for the top portion (vacuum end).

I just think having the valve a solid piece would be much better than risk the chance of leaks.

Maybe I will make one out of square using your dimensions and then I will post a picture so you could see what I mean.

Yeah I know exactly what you mean about the square body idea. I was thinking about that after reading your post and that was the only way I could think of to make it all from one piece.

In the meantime, I have turned the Top and Bottom sections (to within 1/16" of the final dimensions). So far so good. Damn there's a lot of metal to remove to go from a 3" Dia blank down to roughly 1" diameter !!! Whew !!!

I have already determined that I'm going to shorten the top piece by 3/8 to 1/2". It's too massive as it sits now.

Hopefully I'll have some more work done to it so that I can bring it to Carlisle.

[This message has been edited by Dan E (edited 05-24-2003).]