BigKeyserSoze
Joined:
Jun 2008
Bradenton-Sarasota, Florida
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I'm back getting ready to get my 1987 Chumpcar Turbo Coupe ready to race. The last time we were out, the computer died. This is the second time this has happened.
The wiring on this car is totally gutted. Most of the wires coming out of the factory computer we are not using.
1. Can I put an automatic trans computer in and have the car run? Would seem to me that I can, and those are far easier to find than the 5 speed computers. We've already removed the boost control sensors, etc, and control all of that manually, so I'm not overly concerned.
2. Any idea why I'm eating computers? I find it hard to accept that we've been through two computers. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
-Scott
1987 Turbo Coupe
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Pete D
Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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From what others have said after doing a trans swap (auto to stick) yes, you can use an auto computer.
Pete Dunham
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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Its rare to kill an EEC. EEC IV and EEC V PCMs are built to near military specs and are very reliable. HUGE voltage spikes will kill them however. Hooking up jumper cables "backwards" has been known to kill them, but many even survive that abuse.
First thing I would do is check grounds. pins 40 and 60 should go directly to batt neg terminal. 20 should be grounded to the car near the EEC.
Blown diode(s) in alt, improper alt regulation of voltage output due to bad regulator can produce large voltage spikes. Check system voltage. Monitor with a oscilloscope if possible, Be sure you NEVER run any car with any computer controls with the batt disconnected, as this also generates HUGE voltage spikes that can kill any electronics in the car.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Rod K
Joined:
Dec 2003
Charlotte, NC, US
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Yes you can use the auto computer. The 8UA is a very good option.
Rod Kiser, '88TC, 5 speed, 5 lug, Cobra 13" front brakes, Mark VII 11 1/4" rear disc brakes, PiMP'n, Bullit wheels, ATR 3" exhaust, Aluminum driveshaft, EDIS, 60 LB injectors, gutted upper & ported lower. NATO Member
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BigKeyserSoze
Joined:
Jun 2008
Bradenton-Sarasota, Florida
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We've got pins 20, 40 and 60 ganged together and going directly to a good chassis ground. Nothing goes to the battery, but the battery rides shotgun in a steel battery box, so I could take a ground from the battery box, and join it to the pin 20, 40 and 60 ground. But would this kill a battery? I haven't checked the voltage, but I don't think there is a problem there. I did an alternator swap a while ago on it, but I think all is well.
Let me know what you think about my grounds. And thanks for the info on the auto trans computer. I ordered one tonight.
1987 Turbo Coupe
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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As I said, run 40, 60 directly to the batt negative terminal. Use 10 ga wire. 20 should be grounded near the EEC. Grounds are not all created equal. 20, 40 and 60 should not be all ganged together and grounded to the same point.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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teal95
Joined:
Dec 2002
Grass Lake, MI
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We never had any problems with our LeMons car, at least with the EEC. From personal experience you can run any of the auto cals and it won't make a bit of difference except for the boost level if you are running the stock solenoid. I don't recommend this anyways. Unless you have a much better intercooler than stock I would stay with the 10 psi you get from the low boost setting. Everyone I know (at least 3 other cars) that has tried to run 15 has been replacing the head gaskets after 7 hours or less. The intercooler just isn't big enough for the heat soaking we put to them road racing. We got 2.5 races out of the first engine and the reason it let go was that the previous owner had rebuilt the engine with hyper-u-cracked it flat tops instead of the forged dish pistons that the turbo should have. The engine we are running now has done 3 races one of which was the ChumpCar 24 at VIR. The car came out of my retired gold '87 TC (cancer) with 250k on it. It got new rings and bearings with a quicky hone job.
steve
'83 & '84 GT turbo EEC-Tuner
'85.5 & '86 SVO twEECer
2x '87 & '88 TC QuarterHorse
'93 LX 5.0 notch Moates chips
3x '95 & '96 GT
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