North American Turbocoupe Organization



Compression Test Results
w60 Offline
Senior Member
#1
Timing belt all set and adjusted and it's all spot on and lined up, but the car still won't run. It fires, then sputters, then dies.

Fuel pressure is 60 psi.

I did a compression test and here's the results (dry psi / 1 spoon of oil psi):

#1 - 170 / NA
#2 - 170 / NA
#3 - 60 / 85
#4 - 65 / 100

Is the next step pulling the head?
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
Reply

B Offline
Administrator
#2
That fuel pressure is way high. That's like normal fuel pressure at 21 psi of boost.

I reckon it's head pulling time. At the very least you got a blown gasket between 3 and 4.
Brian Leavitt
'86 TC 5-Speed -- MS2x w/COP | 83 lb. injectors | T3/T4 50 Trim Stage 3 .63AR | Full 3" Exhaust - No Cat | Motorsport FMIC | Ranger Roller | Ported E6 | Walbro 255HP | Kirban | 20psi | 120-amp 3G | 8.8" 3.55 rear | '03 Cobra Wheels
Reply

Jeff K Online
Administrator
#3
Agree with Brian 100%
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
Reply

w60 Offline
Senior Member
#4
I've always wanted to do that! Guess I have a plan for tomorrow Smile

There's no water in the oil BTW, but I drove it less than a quarter mile to my driveway after it started noticeably having a problem.
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
Reply

jmthunderbirdturbo Offline
Posting Freak
#5
2.3s arent a full sleeve engine, they just blow between the fire rings. very rare to have oil/water mix into the cylinders or into each other due to head gasket failure.

side note, i replaced my HG last winter, from running on 2 cylinders to running on 4 and driving it, in 6 hours. i replaced NOTHING but the gasket. $10, 6 hours, burnouts. i didn't even change the oil (had 1500 miles left on it), and i filtered the old coolant through a t-shirt and dumped it back in.

have fun!

-J0N
APRIL 2018 - LOOKING FOR A NEW CAR. PM me if you have an 87-88 roller or cheap TF for sale.
1988 TC 5MT-Blue/Blue check-off car. resto-project.
2006 Honda Odyssey 5AT, baby-mobile.
2013 F-150, 5.0, 6AT, 4x4, snow white paint.
Reply

anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#6
That's almost exactly the readings I had when my head gasket blew. I read somewhere that the TCs have a tendency to blow out the gasket between cylinders 3 and 4. Article didn't say why.

Telltale sign for me (like a slipped or broken timing belt) was the rahhh-rahhh-RAHHH-rahhh-rahhh, rahhh-rahhh-RAHHH-rahhh-rahhh sound of the engine cranking--it wasn't the rhythmic sound we're all used to hearing, the continuous evenly-pitched sound. There was a point when it was a much higher note for a second or two, I'm guessing because the mistimed valves/blown gasket was allowing air pressure to escape from the pistons at that point.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
Reply

w60 Offline
Senior Member
#7
I'm slow at this, but I take something off, label it then go do work in hope of getting paid, BUT, now I have 2 questions.

1. FUEL RAIL: after the bolts are out, does the fuel rail just pull off of the injectors?

2. EXHAUST BOLTS: It seems they are 17mm but they have a bit of play in them. The SAE tools I have don't fit and I don't think I want to round off they bolt heads.
http://www.mycoachonline.com
White 88 TC Auto Trans
White 04 Honda CR/V
Blue 74 Honda Trail 70
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#8
1. Yep, the injectors just pull out. Get some fresh O rings when reassembling, 1 each, top and bottom.

2.They are 17mm. That's what I used on them. Soak them for a day or3 with PB Blaster or other good penetrating oil.
Pete Dunham


Reply

anasazi4st Offline
Senior Member
#9
Depending on whether the injectors are OEM (or not), there might be some small light blue plastic caps or "hats" (they look like derby hats, like Wimpy from "Popeye" wore). The small opening at the end (top of the "hat") is where the fuel is, uh, injected from. This opening tends to get full of gunk, dirt, gum, etc. You can CAREFULLY pry off the caps with a screwdriver, but work VERY SLOWLY. Underneath the cap is the pintle, a little needle-looking arrangement that's the actual port the fuel comes out of. If it's bent or broken off, the injector is now garbage.

The caps become bent or damaged almost every time that you pry them off. Pep Boys and NAPA are a couple of places you can get replacements, I'm sure there are others. Pep Boys used to sell a kit that had the plastic rings/spacers, o-rings and the caps complete for all four injectors for about $20, if memory serves me correctly.

You might try using a spray carb cleaner to remove all that crap, but I've always just replaced the caps, o-rings and spacers on each. They're not expensive and I think it's a better repair.
Another proud dues-paying member.

1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 1 T5OD full rebuild, 5 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB