Codes 42, 72. Car running rough

put on a new FPR and no change, cleaned out the IAC and no change.

What was weird is that when i swapped the new fpr on, the car fired right up and ran get for about 10-15 seconds and then died and back to itself.

ok i was able to do a little testing, hopeing to do more tonight...

vref - 5.11 volts

vaf sig - climbed fine but broke everytime at 3.0 volts

vat sig - i may have done wrong. i didnt see a "vat sig" pin on the vam commector so i tryed it to the "vat" but wasnt really getting any ohms...it said 10 and 4.79 volts

but while having the key on and being under there for 20 minutes trying to figure things out the other box with bap attached to it was making all kinds of noises on and off. just hear alot of clicking and would come and go as please. i moved some wires around and now my CEL flashs codes again which all i got was 81 82 83 84. so im hoping im on to something here...

The bigger box that the bap is attached to is the IRCM, integrated relay control module. It contains 5 relays. These include a power relay for the EEC, two relays for the fans (EDF - electro drive fan)a relay for the fuel pump and a relay for the AC clutch IIRC

Here is an article on troubleshooting and repair:
http://turbotbird.com/techinfo/New_IRCM/IRCM.html

Code 81 relates to the stock boost controller not being hooked up electrically. No big deal unless there is a vacuum line not connected to something,
code 82 - check the EDF signal to the IRCM for a short to ground
code 83 - check the EDF signal to the IRCM for an open circuit.
code 84 - Check for EGR solenoid open circuit. The solenoid sits on the back side of the pass side strut tower along with the over boost warning sensor. Trace which vacuum hoses(s) go over the the EGR diaphram valve.

Jeff K outlined this test procedure for the EGR solenoid:
"You can test the EGR soleniod for proper operation by using the Output State check portion of the KOEO code test. See tech articles on details of how to run the output state test.

Hook a vacuum pump to the vac supply side of the EGR solenoid. This is most easily done at the vac tree connection. Pump it down to 20" or so. It should hold vacuum. Run KOEO test, and when it finishes with the
codes, enter output state test. When the EGR solenoid is energized, vac should drop, and EGR valve open a little. Pump up the vac, and EGR valve should fully open. De-energizing EGR solenoid should close EGR valve. If
it cant hold vac with EGR solenoid closed, check for vac leaks to solenoid."

The EGR valve may need cleaning. Take it off the upper intake and clean it off. Also clean the single passage in the upper intake if clogged (there is only one passage even though signs make it look like there would be two.

thank you...

also I forgot to mention my fan has been wired to run all the time now....when I was testing either complete power or atleast fan power went out completely two times for atleast 12-15 seconds...

A guess, but check the connectors and wiring to/at the fan. Either connectors or wiring can go bad

im no good with electrical stuff. what/how do I test on the ircm?

wiring to and at fan is good

ircm gets constant 12v, even when i wiggle and yank wires and even when its clicking...now what

I had one side of the connector on the fan itself go bad and would cause the fan to sometimes work.

With the electrical connector off of the fan all looked normal, but if I pushed on one of the prongs on the fan motor itself it would push into the fan so that when I plugged the fan connector in it would sometimes make contact and sometimes not.

but would that make my car barely idle

nope...but easy to check.