code 14 PIP circuit failure

i ran a scan tool today and thats the code i got, now my fuel pump wont fire on, it used to. the injecters dont get twelve volts at key on. i disconnected the battery for a while and reconnected it and now i get no codes.

what does PIP failure mean, and how do i diagnose if i need a new comp or not. and if i choose to upgrade comp. what comp/injecters should i choose?

The injectors aren't "fired" until the EEC sees an ignition pulse such as cranking and engine running.

As far as the Code 14, that is somewhat common and can be caused by a fault in your ignition system, such as a problem with your spark plug wires. Are you using Motorcraft wires or cheap automotive store wires? If you're using cheap wires, it is common for this code 14 to set.

How did the engine run before all of this?

As far as your fuel pump not running, it could be the relay in your integrated controller or circuit wiring or perhaps you killed a fuse link, which may not be too likely.

Since you say you get no codes, you don't even get the pass code? If not, perhaps your EEC is no longer getting power, which if that were the case, then the fuel pump couldn't prime either since the EEC runs that on inital key ON engine OFF to prime the system.

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the ignition switch to On? If not, did it used to? If used to and it isn't now, then your EEC probably is not getting power and may be due to a bad relay in the integrated relay controller or a power issue to the integrated relay contoller unit.

The EECs very rarely just go bad, the majority of them are killed due to abnormal voltage spikes.

[This message has been edited by JT (edited 10-16-2004).]

i do get pass codes, and a check engine light. and my relay makes noises when i put it in key on and ground the pump at the place where the scan tool hooks into. when i back probe the pink and black wires and turn to key on i get 12 volts from the relay. according to the faqs my other option is the inertia switch. which i cant get off because of a metal wire thing that goes into the trunk fire wall. ive busted a screw driver trying to get it undone. are there any other options to get my pump running?

Read Jeff's article on "Fuel PUMP Diagnosis" in the Technical Articles

As Pete said, you can look at Jeff's article near the bottom http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/Fuel_...ostics.htm Since he did a good job with the article, i can't really say any more at this moment that the article doesn't say itself. As far as that inertia switch being bad, it can be possible, but i'm not betting a lot on that being the problem. i haven't seen many good bad, not like a fuel pump.

Good luck and let us know if you have any more questions.

fixed it, runs great now faster than ever

Mark, could you tell us what / how you fixed the problem? Might help someone else down the road.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)

the problem was caused by a very stupid mistake on my part. i had had previous fuel pressure probs caused by the hose leaking between the pump and bung, i fixed that and forgot to hook up the ground on my fuel pump in the tank, but the ground would occasionally make contact and the pump would run, and it eventually just got knocked so it didn't make contact. so i dropped the tank, jumped the pump, read 12 V where the wires hook up to the pump on top the tank, pull the pump and see its not grounded. so it was just plain stupidity on my part

Mark, you arent the only one that makes stupid mistakes. My last stupid mistake (last one in a string of many): A few months ago, I hop into my 86 Tbird 5.0 to take my daughter to school. Crank with no start. No big deal, I just fire up the TC and take her. That night, I look into the problem with the 5.0. Fuel pump runs prime, I have spark, etc. After an hour or so of dicking around with it, I realize I forgot to plug the IAC electrical connector back in after doing some work on the car the day before. Plug IAC in, and it started fine. DOH!

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)

I lost count of the # of times I forgot to plug the sprout back in. I like to leave the VAM unplugged too [Image: biggrin.gif]