North American Turbocoupe Organization



Clutch Removal/Installation
GoNYYankees02 Offline
Member
#1
When I first started driving the car, I noticed a burning and now (a few days later) the clutch is begining to slip. I'm unable to to hit the gas and have the car move, the RPM's just fly and the car goes nowhere and when you let off you can feel the clutch grab again.

I was just wondering what is involved in changing the clutch? Does anyone have any diagrams or anything to help me out with it? Anything I should know? I figure that since I have to replace it anyways, I might as well go with a stage III. Thank You

Nick G
88 TC- under construction. Street/Strip toy.
93 F250 7.3L- D/D
93 Jeep YJ- Offroad Toy.
06 Sportster 1200
03 FXDWG Anniversary-not stock
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martin0660 Offline
Posting Freak
#2
A simple search of "clutch replacement" yielded lots of hits...here is a particularly good one.

http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...210#000000

I also beleive that link is in the Tech Articles too? I assume you have read through there? TONS of good information in the archives here if you choose to put in the effort to search and read it.

This is a case where the basic Haynes / Chiltons type manuals are a very good resource as well.

Bob Myers
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Get the flywheel turned or get a new one (about $50+) search the PN forum. If you need a new clutch fork, see if Vintage Auto sales has any left, http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQpage/FAQpag...art_number

If the Trans Input collar (what the TO bearing rides on) is deeply scored or gouged, it will have to be replaces. It it's just lightly scratched it can be smoothed with emory paper.


Be sure to drain the trans before you pull the driveshaft Big Grin

http://natomessageboard.com/cgi-bin/ulti...032#000000
http://natomessageboard.com/cgi-bin/ulti...129#000000
http://natomessageboard.com/cgi-bin/ulti...869#000004
http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQpage/FAQpag...art_number

There is a lot more also in the past posts
Pete Dunham


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AerobirdMotorsports Offline
Banned
#4
Unbolt exhaust (any that's in the way), unbolt the driveshaft (It's a crazy size, like 14MM 12-point deep-well), drop it out (note: tranny fluid will pour out the tailshaft), unbolt starter, take out hydraulic doo-mafloggy on side of trans (black plastic thingy that goes to your slave cylinder), unbolt trans and crossmember, unbolt the pressure plate, unbolt flywheel. Get flywheel resurfaced, purchase quality clutch kit (Spec Stage II, Ram Powergrip, or if you're going for big HP, Spec Stage III, RAM Powergrip HD 6-puck kevlar), and install everything. You'll also have to unbolt your shifter trim and pull of the shifter. Refill the trans through the shifter when done (2 bottles of Royal Purple SynchroMax is great) and replace the little hat bushing. Also a good time to install a real shifter, like a Pro5.0. Get a Haynes, Chilton's, and/or Ford manual as well. Also bribe some burly friends with beer to help lower and raise the trans, it's a little heavy for 1 guy. Do alot of research, be careful, buy quality parts. Good luck!
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AerobirdMotorsports Offline
Banned
#5
Damn you guys are FAST!
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Clutches are easy nothing real technical about it just that they are time consuming. So first jack the car up it is best to have it level as can be. jack stands are your friend here. It can be done with the front of the car up high and the rear tires on the ground as I have done this. Disconnect the battery for safety and drain the fluid from the trans make sure all of it is out or as much as you can get out. while it is draining remove the shifter before you get to dirty from rolling on the ground. just take off the shift knob remove the two screws on either side and it pops up. at least take the long handle off if you cant get the plate off with it. craw underneath. unbolt the 4 bolts from the rear yoke of the trans for the driveshaft. These will be 4 12MM 12 point bolts. slide the driveshaft out making sure you dont damage the Universal joints my dragging them on the ground. I feel it is easier to remove the trans separete from the bellhousing. I want to say 15MM which would be the four bolts holding the trans to the bell remove them. you will need a couple extentions here. The passanger side i have done without removing the exhaust it is tight but I have done it both ways with it removed it is easier but takes longer. now put a jack under the tailshaft of the trans and jack it till the point is jsut raises the trans a bit. remove the large bolt from the tans mount which is 22 MM i think big sucker. anyway noe remove the nut and bolts for the trans mount one on either side 13MM. wrench and ratchet is how I did it. remove cross member. This is the fun part.get under the trans lift the tailshaft and kick the jack out of your way put the tailshaft on your knee and shake it while pulling towards the rear. easier with a creeperso you can put the trans on your chest and slide out if you have enough room. that was the hardest part. Unbolt the starter unhook the slave cylinder from the bell and undo all the bolts. there are two bolts up top near the head the hard coolant lines may get in the way jus tmove them. this is why I say it is easier with the trans removed b/c you can get to these bolts easily. remove all bolts from bellhousing and it should come off. Now you will see the clutch pressure plate disk and flywheel. there will be I believe six bolts holding the pressure plate on. these are tight and will require muscle to get off. i think they are 12 or 13mm. that comes off and the disk comes off. behind it. with the flywheel left is the part that could cost more money. some wil get it resurfaced and soem will buy new or some will leave it alone. If there are heat stress cracks it WILL wear the clutch down faster maybe even damage it. as the flywheel is used to the old clutch disk. I didnt do anything but clean it up with an abrasive pad since I used a cheap clutch setup. you go that route it doesnt need to be removed. now reinstall. the new kti should come with an allignemnt tool. looks like a long plastic tool with teeth on it. put the clutch disk the right way on the flywheel and put the pressure plate over it. put a couple of the pressure plate bolts in loose this way you odnt have to hold it. slide the allignemtn tool in there so the disk pressure plate and pilot bearing all line up. also make note most kits come with a new pilot bearing and it should be replaced as well, which goes inside the block. at the rear seal area. so you have it alligned put all the bolts in with threadlocker so they wont back out the high temp stuff to. so the disc and plate are on. take a look at the clutch fork. they tend to wear and or break the bearing clip. you will need a new one if the clip is gone since it holds it in place when the bearing is not in use. put the new bearing on the fork and put the fork thru the bell hole. reinstall the bell housing, put the starter on but dont put the slave cylinder back in place. or you can wait for the starter too. put the trans on the jack and slide it under jack it up as high as you can or lift it up if your strong. this is the hardest part of the hole job it could take 2 min or an hour. Make sure the trans is straight and your comfortable with your position. slide the trans in straight as can be if you didnt allign the clutch disc right you wont get the trans in. the teeth line up with all the teeth in the plate and disc. you might have to wiggle up and down a bit or side to side. and mayeb even have to turn the output shaft. all at the same time too. it helps to have a prybar and pull on the clutch fork a bit just enough to give it some play but not come loose. once in get a top bolt in and let it hang while you rest put the four other bolts in and reinstall everything. once your reeady togo, fill with mercron dextron atf fluid to the top of the fill hole. this is why it helps if the car is level. take it for a drive be easy the first 500 miles or so you need to break in the clutch. dont forget to bleed the clutch lave cylinder while your there. good luck.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#7
sorry didnt mean togo nuts just felt like being nice.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Eagle11401 Offline
Member
#8
Quote:Originally posted by trashline:
sorry didnt mean togo nuts just felt like being nice.
Where were you at with this last friday, I had to figure all this out the hard way! LOL
87 Turbo Coupe -> gone
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#9
lol sorry, working or getting drunk who knows. copy and paste it. I think Im gonna make up a website of tech articles this way i can just post a link to a write-up, Im lazy
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Eagle11401 Offline
Member
#10
Already done, lol.
87 Turbo Coupe -> gone
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