North American Turbocoupe Organization



Clutch problem and advice
BlueBird Offline
Junior Member
#1
Hi all,
I've got a slight problem with my clutch. The 'Bird has been down for 5 years, I'm putting it back on the road for a daily driver. Getting the bugs out...

The other day after I drove it, it wouldn't go into gear. I shut it down, worked the clutch a few times and started it again. It went into gear. When I returned to it later, it wouldn't go into gear again at all. I had to step on the clutch while in was gear and it started as I was rolling. It sounded like something freed up and it started shifting again. Since then it's been shifting.

I'm assuming it something in the clutch pack, I'm not leaking fluid from the system. Has a creaky sound when I step on the clutch pedal. As far as I know, it's the original 88 TC clutch unless it was changed before I got it at 45k, it's at 123k now.

In looking for a new clutch, there is a staggering array of choices and vendors out there. I'd like to get something above stock for 2 reasons. I may make modest mods to my T-Bird over the coming miles. Also, I'd like to not do a clutch job for another 123k if possable.

I don't beat on the car, I don't do 5k launches, but maybe 2.5k just to test the traction of the tires from time to time. Smile My goals would be longevity in "spirited driving" and perhaps, a mild performance increase.

Anyone have any sage advice for products or vendors?? I'm thinking I'll just go with an OEM Luk for the money, it's economical and ok for mild mods?

Thanks,
Bill
Stock 1988 Ford Turbo Coupe
Bird Blog Adventures in restoration. http://88bluebird.blogspot.com/
Reasons why men do these things:
www.guyrules.com
Reply

88Tbird2.3t Offline
Senior Member
#2
if your not going to do crazy RPM launches, and keep the HP real mild, you might as well just stick with an OEM clutch as you dont need to spend money on an aftermarket upgrade, you can probably get a new OEM clutch kit for something under $100

i think the LUK sounds like a good idea, how much is that kit?

i would only really consider upgrading to a better clutch if you planned on doing a lot of launching and are looking for upwards of 250-300+rwhp maybe
88 TC
Best run: 1/8 - 8.062 @ 87.91MPH, 1/4 - 12.564 @ 109.44 MPH *(10/17/12)*
Reply

BlueBird Offline
Junior Member
#3
Luk kit from dial a clutch is $111, new flywheel is $47. Thats about the cheapest I've found unless you know of a better place.

I'll replace the rear main seal while I'm in there. Plus a few other things too.

Bill
Stock 1988 Ford Turbo Coupe
Bird Blog Adventures in restoration. http://88bluebird.blogspot.com/
Reasons why men do these things:
www.guyrules.com
Reply

boostaddict Offline
Junior Member
#4
I had the exact same problem with an old clutch in a cherokee that I used to own. It sat for less than a year, and no clutch. The pedal/hydraulics felt great, just no release. Come to find out that the disk had rusted to the flywheel, and the diaphragm on the pressure plate wasn't providing enough clearance for the disk to slip free. This Jeep had sat for less than a year. Once the pressure plate came down, the disk was stuck like glue to the flywheel!

I've had great experiences with LUK brand clutchs. They're made in Germany, and are a quality product. They're reasonably priced at Pep Boys as well. Some transmission supply houses such as Axiom or Transtar will have a better price if you hunt around long enough.
1988 Turbo Coupe, 5 speed, LS diff
1989 F350 4X4, 5 speed, Banks turbo
1978 Bronco, G 4 speed, 400, chopped top (summertime ride)
Reply

boostaddict Offline
Junior Member
#5
While you have the tranny down, you should lube the little pivot ball that the clutch fork rides on. Don't go overboard on the lube, but get the fork pivot, where the throwout bearing rides on the input shaft sleeve, where the throwout bearing pivots on the fork, and maybe even a little lube on the slave cylinder pushrod (where it makes contact with the clutch fork) I've always used Permatex anti-seeze, but I've heard of folks using liquid graphite as well.

This could be where some of your squeeking is coming from.
1988 Turbo Coupe, 5 speed, LS diff
1989 F350 4X4, 5 speed, Banks turbo
1978 Bronco, G 4 speed, 400, chopped top (summertime ride)
Reply

BlueBird Offline
Junior Member
#6
Somewhere on the fork is where it seems to have been squeaking from. I took the slave cover off and removed the slave then stepped on the clutch, no squeak so I assume its the fork pivot. Sprayed some lube in there and it helped. Tried my best not to spray the clutch plate.

What really bugs me is the problem about not being able to shitft into gear. It's working fine now but left me with an uneasy feeling about it's reliability. I've ordered the clutch set and its on the way. I figure I got my moneys worth at 123k from one clutch. If I only have to do it once every 15 years thats not so bad. As long as that is what the problem is.

I doubt this ones gonna get better rather than worse. I checked the fluid level in the trans, that was ok too.

What got stuck?

Bill
Stock 1988 Ford Turbo Coupe
Bird Blog Adventures in restoration. http://88bluebird.blogspot.com/
Reasons why men do these things:
www.guyrules.com
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
Quote:What got stuck?
Can't say. Might want to peel back the rubber boot on the rod end of the slave and see how much fluid moisture is there. A little is normal. If it's dripping, the slave needs replaced.
With everything hooked up, the slave cyl rod should move a minimum of 0.53" when the pedal is pushed all the way down.

Might be good to change that fluid also.
Same with the trans, change the fluid. Spec calls for Dexron III/IV, about 5.6 pints

Some people use a little friction modifier in the trans. It is not called for but some say it improves shifting. YMMV.
Pete Dunham


Reply

TurboCoupe50 Offline
Posting Freak
#8
If it's scored, it's a good idea to replace the transmission front bearing retainer, as the throw out bearing rides on it(common cause of noise and hard pedal)... Problem is, last I heard the 4cyl retainer was obsolete & the 5.0 retainer is smaller...
1988 Turbo Coupe331 AOD

1972 Comet GT

1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed
Reply

BlueBird Offline
Junior Member
#9
Thanks Pete. I saw that post of yours while searching around and I did look for that. Doesn't seem to be the case, pretty dry in the slave cyl.

TC50, I'll check for that when she's apart. I am hoping that isn't the case since parts are really getting to be hard to find with these old Birds.

Most times when I go to Autozone, the car is older than the kid behind the counter.

Thank you all for your advice. It's appreciated greatly.

Bill
Stock 1988 Ford Turbo Coupe
Bird Blog Adventures in restoration. http://88bluebird.blogspot.com/
Reasons why men do these things:
www.guyrules.com
Reply

BlueBird Offline
Junior Member
#10
I got the clutch set out and all I really see that is bad for sure is the pilot bearing. It's in pieces. Unless I broke it when i took out the tranny.

That's about it though. Cluch fork is all in one piece, no broken tangs. TOB is a little jiggly but not busted up. PP and CP still have plenty life left on them. I'll replace them anyway. They dont look oil soaked.

Ya think that could have made it not shift into gear?

Whats the best way to get the dead pilot bearing out of there?


Thanks,
Bill
Stock 1988 Ford Turbo Coupe
Bird Blog Adventures in restoration. http://88bluebird.blogspot.com/
Reasons why men do these things:
www.guyrules.com
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB