Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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^^^^^ +1 with Fred
There is a spec for how far the slave rod should move out with clutch pedal fully depressed. I THINK the slave should extend .53 inches with pedal fully depressed.
Someone feel free to correct the .53" number I have stored in my old guy brain if I am wrong wrong!!
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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(06-16-2020, 09:28 PM)fred k Wrote: (06-16-2020, 01:40 AM)Daniel T Wrote: Master clutch cylinder maybe?? Im gonna order it and change it and hopefully it works. Not sure why the only subject is the hydraulic components. If your pressure plate is fatigued and some of the fingers have failed it may not have the strength to pull the plate away from the clutch all the way. Also, you may consider the clutch fork. Definitely easier to eliminate the hydraulic components first. Thanks for the reply Fred, i will look into that too
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(06-16-2020, 10:16 PM)Jeff K Wrote: ^^^^^ +1 with Fred
There is a spec for how far the slave rod should move out with clutch pedal fully depressed. I THINK the slave should extend .53 inches with pedal fully depressed.
Someone feel free to correct the .53" number I have stored in my old guy brain if I am wrong wrong!! Thanks Jeff, I see the fork moving and the stuff on the inside too..it moves about half inch maybe.
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anasazi4st
Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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06-17-2020, 12:56 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-17-2020, 01:02 AM by anasazi4st.)
(06-16-2020, 05:29 PM)Daniel T Wrote: (06-16-2020, 01:17 PM)Kuch Wrote: It wouldn't hurt to change it as well. Might as well..who know when was the last time that it was changed.
NOTE:
The Removal and Installation instructions in both the original 1987 Ford and Haynes shop Manuals tell you to remove the clutch master cylinder BY TURNING 45 DEGREES CLOCKWISE. This is INCORRECT.
To remove, it is the OPPOSITE—turn 45 degrees COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. To install, turn it 45 degrees CLOCKWISE. You will find it MUCH easier to place a suitably-sized socket on the end of the master cylinder, to aid in turning it (I can’t recall the size). It is a VERY tight fit.
I know this is wrong because I spent an hour or more trying to install it the manual’s way, before I finally tried the other way in desperation (we do learn by doing). The 1988 Supplement to the 1987 Ford shop manual corrects this issue.
I have had the same symptoms as you many times, and it has always come down to the hydraulic components. There was even a time a brand-new slave cylinder gave those symptoms only hours after it was installed, placing it near the bottom of a probable list of causes. It was proved to be faulty.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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(06-17-2020, 12:56 AM)anasazi4st Wrote: (06-16-2020, 05:29 PM)Daniel T Wrote: (06-16-2020, 01:17 PM)Kuch Wrote: It wouldn't hurt to change it as well. Might as well..who know when was the last time that it was changed.
NOTE:
The Removal and Installation instructions in both the original 1987 Ford and Haynes shop Manuals tell you to remove the clutch master cylinder BY TURNING 45 DEGREES CLOCKWISE. This is INCORRECT.
To remove, it is the OPPOSITE—turn 45 degrees COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. To install, turn it 45 degrees CLOCKWISE. You will find it MUCH easier to place a suitably-sized socket on the end of the master cylinder, to aid in turning it (I can’t recall the size). It is a VERY tight fit.
I know this is wrong because I spent an hour or more trying to install it the manual’s way, before I finally tried the other way in desperation (we do learn by doing). The 1988 Supplement to the 1987 Ford shop manual corrects this issue.
I have had the same symptoms as you many times, and it has always come down to the hydraulic components. There was even a time a brand-new slave cylinder gave those symptoms only hours after it was installed, placing it near the bottom of a probable list of causes. It was proved to be faulty. I'll folllow that procedure once i get the part from Rockauto, thanks for the help! I looked on the clutch pedal and its leaking, I hope thats it if not i guess i gotta drop the tranny.
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Update: just finish changing and bleeding the clutch master and the slave cylinder, the car is shifting fine so far, I hope it does well tomorrow on my way to work.
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Kuch
Joined:
Sep 2016
Manlius, NY USA
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Awesome Daniel, nice work
1988 Turbo Coupe, Black/Black, 5 Speed, Moonroof, T3/T4, ported E6, 255LPH, Kirban, Stinger Exhaust, MGW shifter, K&N, Gillis valve, BP1.5, PIMPx, Koni's
1964 Ford Galaxie 500XL, 390 6V, Big Solid cam, Headers,3.89's, 4 Speed, Vast and fast
1960 Ford Starliner, 292 Y Block, 312 4bbl intake, headers, 3 Speed, slow and low
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Jeff K
Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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Good job! The clutch bleeding is kind of a PITA, IMO.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Thanks u guys for the help, u guys r awesome!!!
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anasazi4st
Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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(06-25-2020, 01:31 PM)Daniel T Wrote: Thanks u guys for the help, u guys r awesome!!! Happy to help! There is a lot of knowledge here, some of it “book smarts” but most of it actual repair experience.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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