North American Turbocoupe Organization



Clutch Master/Slave
TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I have searched and found out how to replace the hydraulic master, the slave seems straight forward as ive taken it out to replace the clutch. Some of the searched threads had pictures that must have an old link. Does anyone have any pictures of where to bleed the line at the slave or where the "pin" needs to go in/out to attach to the line (neven heard of a line attaching like that) for the master or slave. Guess i will figure it out just thought if someone has pic I could have an idea before it's apart.

I can't seem to find a leak, it "works" but the pedal stays low on the floor... after time (which is odd) the pedal will come up again, and i can kind of pull it back up with my foot right away which leads me to believe its an air/hydraulic leak thing not the clutch??? Sounds like i will need to check some cap or something on the slave for leaking fluid... Has anyone ever replaced the line? sounds like i can get the master and the slave parts.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
Reply

tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#2
Sounds like your throw out bearing may be hanging. Did you clean up the input shaft and grease the bearing when you did the clutch?

-Shane
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
Reply

TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#3
It's engaging/disengaging ok??? the pedal just "feels weird" would you still think the throw out? It's not noisey (ive had that problem before lol)

It's been about 3-4 years since ive had the trans apart. Not sure what to think yet, thanks ill keep that in mind.
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...otated.jpg
http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...dScrew.JPG

Gently peel the rubber boot on the slave down toward the rod end. It it is moist inside, that is OK. If oil drips, that is not good and slave should be replaced.
Pete Dunham


Reply

TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Cool, THANK YOU!!!
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
Reply

Paulie Offline
Banned
#6
Sir in order to understand a hydraulic clutch you have to think DIFFERENTLY. For example to remove the pin all you need is a thin flat punch that holds the side of the fitting on the slave and master. Also if the cylinder does not return and its spring is not broken this means the master is not comming all the way back and a vacuum is holding the slave from returning back. Another words its like a turkey baster. If you blow all the air out of it(squeeze the ball) and put your finger on the end and do not allow the air to fill the ball up it will stay compressed. Once you remove your finger from the end of the baster the ball will return to its normal shape( Fill with air). This happens when a pedal does not return all the way or if the master has a problem and does not allow fluid to return to the slave( its like a vacuum) Here is the best way to bleed a hydraulic cylinder assembly. Remove the slave and point the plunger down. Make sure the master is full then push the plunger in. This expels all the air up and out of the master. Its like when a doctor removes the air from a syringe before giving a shot. Normally all the new cars with hydrulic clutch setups come pre bleed and come with the slave the master and the line. Example Chevy camoros. Hope this helps Thanks
Reply

TurboE Offline
Posting Freak
#7
I finally got some time to look into this issue, turns out the master was bad, but I replaced the slave as well, figured it was cheap insurance at $47. Thanks for the pictures, and the help! Thanks to whoever mentioned in a previous post about using a dremel tool bit for pushing the pins out, worked perfect and i didn't even spend 30 seconds looking for the right size punch. Then of course I had to burn up the tires a little!!!
-88 TC Black
5spd, Precision SC50 T3/T4, QH/SD Tune, Gillis, AFPR, 255FP, WB O2, K&N, Ported E6, 3" DP, ATR 2.5" Duals, 3:73 Rear, Konis, Eibachs, 18" Voxx Wheels, X Drilled Rotors.
-06 G35 Coupe Diamond Graphite
-97 Pathfinder
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB