Clutch master cylinder

I've done a ton of searching for a master cylinder and haven't been able to find one.  I even had a friend who manages an Advance Auto look and he can't find one anywhere in their network. 
There is a guy on facebook who adapted a C5 master cylinder and in talking with him it didn't take a lot of effort.  It uses the same 1/4 twist to lock into the firewall.  If I remember correctly he had to modify the rod length and you'll have to run a different line but it wasn't bad.  There are also really good master cylinders available for the C5s so if you go to a heavier clutch you have options.  I'm not sure if he's on the board or not.

Yes after reading this thread I went into RockAuto—they list it as Out of Stock. I requested to be notified if and when it becomes available, again. Likely it won’t be, I’m thinking.

I replaced mine years ago before it actually went bad, when I had the TEVES ABS unit out and it was easily accessible, so I have a good working spare I suppose when the time comes. Still rather have a new one though.

Having said that: There is an app—CarPart—that connects you with salvage yards across the country, though the website Car-Part.com. Going there, I see two clutch master cylinders listed—one in Kansas and one in Alberta, Canada. You might want to download the app or go to that website and follow up on these. The phone numbers are 800-847-0994 in Kansas (Broadway Truck and Auto); 403-782-3989 or 800-661-1328 in Alberta (Reg’s Auto Wreckers).

Please let us know what you find out.

So far not looking good, the master cylinder located in Kanas isnt in stock (was old inventory they never took off there site), ive made a call to the people from Canada and they told me they would get back to me. They did not sound too please to have to deal with a Marylander, hopefully they find it.

Let me throw this out there. Have you been asking for one for a Turbo Coupe? I know for the longest time Mustangs used a cable shifting system, but I’m pretty sure they changed over to the hydraulic system at some point. I think the turbo Mustangs were 1987-1993, maybe you can find one that way.

no all 79-93 mustangs were cable clutch even the SVO

I've done a ton of searching for a master cylinder and haven't been able to find one.  I even had a friend who manages an Advance Auto look and he can't find one anywhere in their network. 
There is a guy on facebook who adapted a C5 master cylinder and in talking with him it didn't take a lot of effort.  It uses the same 1/4 twist to lock into the firewall.  If I remember correctly he had to modify the rod length and you'll have to run a different line but it wasn't bad.  There are also really good master cylinders available for the C5s so if you go to a heavier clutch you have options.  I'm not sure if he's on the board or not.

Yes after reading this thread I went into RockAuto—they list it as Out of Stock. I requested to be notified if and when it becomes available, again. Likely it won’t be, I’m thinking.

I replaced mine years ago before it actually went bad, when I had the TEVES ABS unit out and it was easily accessible, so I have a good working spare I suppose when the time comes. Still rather have a new one though.

Having said that: There is an app—CarPart—that connects you with salvage yards across the country, though the website Car-Part.com. Going there, I see two clutch master cylinders listed—one in Kansas and one in Alberta, Canada. You might want to download the app or go to that website and follow up on these. The phone numbers are 800-847-0994 in Kansas (Broadway Truck and Auto); 403-782-3989 or 800-661-1328 in Alberta (Reg’s Auto Wreckers).

Please let us know what you find out.

So far not looking good, the master cylinder located in Kanas isnt in stock (was old inventory they never took off there site), ive made a call to the people from Canada and they told me they would get back to me. They did not sound too please to have to deal with a Marylander, hopefully they find it.

Let me throw this out there. Have you been asking for one for a Turbo Coupe? I know for the longest time Mustangs used a cable shifting system, but I’m pretty sure they changed over to the hydraulic system at some point. I think the turbo Mustangs were 1987-1993, maybe you can find one that way.

no all 79-93 mustangs were cable clutch even the SVO

Well good-ish news. Found a acdelco clutch master on eBay. Says it’s new and the part number matches what I found here https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11039471/wa...16378.html 
Hopefully it works.

Did you receive the part yet?

Did you receive the part yet?

Yes. Looks to be the correct part. Going to put it on tomorrow.

Did you receive the part yet?

Yes. Looks to be the correct part. Going to put it on tomorrow.

Nice... Post up some info on changing it out if you can.

Did you receive the part yet?

Yes. Looks to be the correct part. Going to put it on tomorrow.

Nice... Post up some info on changing it out if you can.

Install was simple. I had to remove the plastic cover under the dash (2 15mm nuts and some screws) There’s a plastic retainer that holds the rod of the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. Mine was brittle and broke apart but my new master came with a replacement. As far as underneath the car, there is a hydraulic line that is held on by a roll pin. I used a small punch and a large socket to punch it out (there isn’t a ton of room to swing a hammer that’s why I used a socket). Then there is a softer rubber line that goes to the reservoir, just use a trim tool or flat head screw driver to push it off. After that take an adjustable wrench and spin the master cylinder to the left about a 1/4 turn and it should fall out (I believe the end of the master cylinder is a 24mm) Reinstall in the reverse order, make sure the new master is completely into the firewall before you turn it to the right or you could break a ear off. For bleeding the system I fill my reservoir up all the way (I used motor craft dot4 fluid) and let it bubble for a couple minutes. There isn’t a bleed screw on the master, so pump away and watch your fluid level until you get a good solid pedal.

Just out of curiosity I pull my old master cylinder apart and it looks fairly simple to rebuild. There are two seals, the piston and a spring. The inner bore of the master cylinder is metal. Only hard part is finding the seals to match. O rings won’t work. I’m doing some research to see if I can match anything up. If I find something I’ll do a write up on rebuilding it.

Thanks for the update!

Did you receive the part yet?

Yes. Looks to be the correct part. Going to put it on tomorrow.

Nice... Post up some info on changing it out if you can.

Install was simple. I had to remove the plastic cover under the dash (2 15mm nuts and some screws) There’s a plastic retainer that holds the rod of the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. Mine was brittle and broke apart but my new master came with a replacement. As far as underneath the car, there is a hydraulic line that is held on by a roll pin. I used a small punch and a large socket to punch it out (there isn’t a ton of room to swing a hammer that’s why I used a socket). Then there is a softer rubber line that goes to the reservoir, just use a trim tool or flat head screw driver to push it off. After that take an adjustable wrench and spin the master cylinder to the left about a 1/4 turn and it should fall out (I believe the end of the master cylinder is a 24mm) Reinstall in the reverse order, make sure the new master is completely into the firewall before you turn it to the right or you could break a ear off. For bleeding the system I fill my reservoir up all the way (I used motor craft dot4 fluid) and let it bubble for a couple minutes. There isn’t a bleed screw on the master, so pump away and watch your fluid level until you get a good solid pedal.

You’ve already figured this out, but when I did mine I learned the hard way to make sure the “eye” of the lever (hole) is properly lined up inside the car with the pedal. I got mine into place—took a while, because as mentioned before I was turning it the wrong way—but did not check the alignment. Turns out it was BELOW the pedal, so I had to remove it and start over. Ugh.