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So about 45 months ago my beloved Turbo co-op engine Bay caught fire and it burned to the ground I've been slaving my butt off and I've just about got this baby back on the road it's road it's so frustrating because the last thing I need is an opera able clutch I'm done messing with this hydraulic system and I just want to put a cable in it so I bought the quadrant in the cable But it has anyone ever put a quadrant on the Turbo co-op pedal assembly? I have not been able to find a Fox body Mustang petal assembly so I'm Wondering if anybody has been able to attach the quadrant to the Turbo co-op clutch pedal? Because I get this past little part done the car is back on the road and at that point I will post pictures I think you all will be pretty impressed I'm pretty proud of it but I just need to get this last part done any help would be appreciated
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Mikey97D
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Joined:
Jan 2018
CONNECTICUT
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Earlier TC's had a clutch cable setup that i am seeing in this thread: https://turbotbird.com/thread-86-tc-clutch-replacement
Sorry, I don't have any first hand knowledge. Hopefully someone will chime in soon. Glad you are getting your car back together!
1988 TC, 5 spd, Stinger 3" Exhaust, Schneider Roller Cam, -4° Cam Pulley, Cone Filter, Gilles Boost Control Valve set at 17 psi, Walbro 255 lph, CHE Rear Lower and Upper Control Arms, Braided Brake Lines, Hawk HPS 5.0 Front and HPS (F) Rear, CRES Inserts in front calipers, and '93 Cobra Wheels with General 235/50R17 Tires.
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88Slowbird
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Joined:
May 2019
Tampa, FL
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pretty sure you'll need the cable clutch style pedal assembly to use a cable
you can't just put a quadrant on your pedals it won't mount up
Black 1988 TC: RR Cam (with Esslinger cam gear), Stinger FMIC, Stinger 3" Exhaust, .60/.63 SVO Turbo, Pimp V1.4, Spartan2 Wideband, Bypass Valve, Hurst Short Throw
Mach 1 Red 1988 TC: Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, manual boost controller
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