North American Turbocoupe Organization



clutch ?
Pat Fay Offline
Member
#1
Its time for a new clutch for me, I was wondering what clutch would you guys recommend? I have the gillis valve and K&N mounted in front of radiator, I also plan on getting an upgraded exhaust (not sure if I want 3" single or 2 1/2" dual yet) But back to the question, what clutch would be good for me? I dont think I "need" a centerforce stage 2 clutch for just the mods, What should I get?

Thanks

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Pat
[email protected]
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1987 Turbo Coupe -
~ 250,000+ miles, Engine rebuilt 10,000 miles ago, New front struts, New fuel injectors, Fixed ABS problem (just needed a new relay), Fixed Emergency Brake cable, New Power Steering Rack and Pinion, New Ball Joints, Fixed Oil Pan Leak, New Starter, Lots of Body work, New Windshield, New power steering pump, Fresh coat of black paint, New Lenses for Lights in front, New Fog Lights, FINALLY fixed the heater core
Mod's -
~ K&N 6" Cone mounted in front of radiator, JVC Kameleon CD Player, Neon Shifter Knob, Neon Light in back, New Kenwood 3 1/2" and 5 1/4" speakers, New 6x9s, Blackout Lights in front, 2 1/2" chrome tips on exhaust, Gillis Valve set at 11 psi (its low because my clutch is slipping...once thats fixed goin to go to 18psi), Single gauge A-Pillar Pod w/ boost gauge...
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Pat, You might consider the Centerforce I. I have it in the daily driver. I haven't had that car to the strip yet, but it should hold up well. I think Dan is using one in his car which he has had on the strip. Same pedal feel as the stock clutch.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


Reply

Pat Fay Offline
Member
#3
How would a Borg Warner clutch be? Also I was wondering what should I replace if the clutch was hard to push down?



------------------
Pat
[email protected]
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1987 Turbo Coupe -
~ 250,000+ miles, Engine rebuilt 10,000 miles ago, New front struts, New fuel injectors, Fixed ABS problem (just needed a new relay), Fixed Emergency Brake cable, New Power Steering Rack and Pinion, New Ball Joints, Fixed Oil Pan Leak, New Starter, Lots of Body work, New Windshield, New power steering pump, Fresh coat of black paint, New Lenses for Lights in front, New Fog Lights, FINALLY fixed the heater core
Mod's -
~ K&N 6" Cone mounted in front of radiator, JVC Kameleon CD Player, Neon Shifter Knob, Neon Light in back, New Kenwood 3 1/2" and 5 1/4" speakers, New 6x9s, Blackout Lights in front, 2 1/2" chrome tips on exhaust, Gillis Valve set at 11 psi (its low because my clutch is slipping...once thats fixed goin to go to 18psi), Single gauge A-Pillar Pod w/ boost gauge...
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#4
Pat, If the your stock (current) clutch is hard to push, something is binding. This is a hydraulically operated clutch. Any binding is either in the pedal itself, the hyd cylinders or most likely in the clutch assembly. Inspect the input shaft bearing retaining collar on the front of the trans. If it is scored/scratched, then the T/O bearing is hanging up on it and could be the cause of binding. Replace it if it's scoured up Also pieces may break off either the clutch or pressure plate and if they get in the right places, will cause shifting problems. Be sure to replace the clutch fork ($12 at Ford) and have the flywheel resurfaced.

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


Reply





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