North American Turbocoupe Organization



Clogged Muffler
gadgetolds Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Havent gotten around to really pull the muffler or pipes cuz its such a pain in the azz to do and I know when I do those bolts at the downpipe are gonna need cut replaced etc, my question is, while running should I be able to cover the tailpipe and with very little to no pressure, keep my hand there? I know there are a couple "small" leaks but not enough to pass ALL the exhaust when its covered.
1988 Turbo Coupe - A237 cam, K&N Cone, T3(.60-.63), 255 Walbro, Gillis BV, gutted and knifed intakes, ported e6, 3" elbow/dp to dual 2.5s, Kirban and spearco fmic.

Up next, ported head, t3/t4 upgrade.
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Most four cylinders I've had would stall if you covered the tail pipe with your hand long enough (minute or so). I've never tried it on this beast, but I presume it would do the same. Slap a vacuum gauge on there. If the vacuum starts at normal after start up and then climbs closer and closer to 0 inHg you have a clogged something in the exhaust (most likley).
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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Tom Senior Offline
Banned
#3
Here is the correct way to test for an exhaust restriction. Remove the O2 and connect a back preasure gauge in tne bong. Run the engine up to 2500 rpm if the gauge reads 3 lbs or more its clogged. I say its clogged at 1 1/2 to 2 lbs. Its a simple test and remember the engine must be warmed up. I never tried to stop an engine by plugging the exhaust . but my gut feeling is it cant be done. Just my thought on the subject. Never really tried it. Rolleyes Big Grin Big Grin Smile Smile
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gadgetolds Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Thanks Tom, but ive been tryin to figure out a way to get my 02 off for a little while now lol. Started to strip it using an 02 wrench and havent messed with it since while I hunt down my other issues. Got any tips that would involve something the low budget backyard guy can try for that? Meaning a nice set of everyday tools but nothing exotic. by looking at the dp bolts/assembly thats going to require money I dont have now, because I know theres a crack in a weld on the top side of the ex pipe id get fixed, and one more i havent pinpointed yet but i "think" its before the turbo, but see no evidence.
1988 Turbo Coupe - A237 cam, K&N Cone, T3(.60-.63), 255 Walbro, Gillis BV, gutted and knifed intakes, ported e6, 3" elbow/dp to dual 2.5s, Kirban and spearco fmic.

Up next, ported head, t3/t4 upgrade.
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Tom Senior Offline
Banned
#5
The only way it will come out is with the smoke wrench. I usually cut the wires off and heat the base where the O2 screws into the adapter. then use a 6 point impact socket and long extension. Then a breaker bar and rock it back and forth till it comes loose. Repeat procedure till it comes out. Hope this helps. Big Grin Big Grin
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gadgetolds Offline
Posting Freak
#6
Thanks Tom, lol had to look up "smoke wrench".
1988 Turbo Coupe - A237 cam, K&N Cone, T3(.60-.63), 255 Walbro, Gillis BV, gutted and knifed intakes, ported e6, 3" elbow/dp to dual 2.5s, Kirban and spearco fmic.

Up next, ported head, t3/t4 upgrade.
Reply





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