North American Turbocoupe Organization



Clearcoat restoration?
RiglerTKE Offline
Member
#1
I have been looking for a discussion on this but can't find anything. I wonder if that means that it is a lost cause. Does anyone know how to restore faded and chipped clear coat on the cars finish? I know that I could get it repainted, but I am looking for something that maybe I could do at home. Can I sand it or strip it with something? I was told that in areas where the clear coating is not cracked, just faded I could hit it with a spray clear coat and it would bond together and restore itself. My car has both spots where the clear coat is gone and spots where it is just faded. Any help would be appreciated.
Todd Rigler
87 TC Stock except for brake swap.
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BROTHER-Rebel-OUTLAW Offline
Junior Member
#2
For the areas where the clear is still present, you could buff the paint. This basically removes a small top layer of clearcoat, basically cleaning the paint. If you don't have experience, I'd suggest you get a professional (bodyshop) to do it. Otherwise, some rubbing compound and a buffer will do the trick. It might even help the areas with minor cracking and peeling. Otherwise, you are looking at painting the car.
IMO [Image: biggrin.gif]

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Keep the shiny side up and I'll see you in the fastlane!
->JP
BROTHER-Rebel-OUTLAW
"I didn't think it was possible,
but this thing both sucks and blows at the same time" -Bart Simpson

BROTHERRebelOUTLAW
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mike65 Offline
Member
#3
Also wet sanding then buffing but if you have chipping,missing,and cracking clearcoat,yup time to strip and paint.I just painted my car about a month ago and used urathane enamel and we put an integrated clearcoat in the paint,(i work at uh-oh better get maaco)anyways its much more inexpensive than base/clear.The more work you can do yourself the more you,ll save.I paid 275.00 for my paint job and it looks great!!But i did alot of prep work.
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Grant Offline
Member
#4
You'll have to check the adhesion of the old clear before you go spraying more on top of it. Get a razorblade, and very carefully skim just the clear at the cracked/missing areas. If it kinda flakes off/cracks off, keep scraping til it doesn't, if it just keeps doing it, you'll have to remove all the clear. You can do this, use a DA sander and be very careful. If you can just get the bad areas to stop after scraping a little, then featheredge the remaining clear down to the repair area. Then you can spray the clear. If you just spray some clear over an old layer that's not sticking to the paint good, you'll open an even bigger can of worms. The best thing, if the paint is all good, is just wetsand the entire car and re-clear it. Prepwork is the key to a paint job, so if you are capable of prepping the car, you could find a shop to just spray clear and save a ton of money! Anymore q's, feel free to ask man. Later

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83 TC : full 3" exhaust, 17" 93 cobra wheels, many mods awaiting install once the engine's back in Smile
83 TC : full 3" exhaust, 17" 93 cobra wheels, many mods awaiting install once the engine's back in Smile
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#5
I recommend not just reclearing if you are looking for a color match. Just easier to repaint the whole car. I’m not going against Mike65, but single stage paints are a thing of the past, like siphon guns. Use tow stage base and clear and repaint the entire car. I used Dupont ChromaBase System on my Tbird. Car looks great (expect pass. door, cuz I hit something) but it cost me 130 for the gal of base, and 230 for the clear. I sprayed on 6 coats of clear and sanded the entire car with 1200, then 1500, then 200 grit sand paper (wet sand, btw) and buffed the entire car and polish etc etc, many man hours are worth the compliments, except for my body work, I missed a few dents. But over al it would have cost around 1500-2000 for this paint job, but I did it in school and had the labor free (a couple cases of beer for my friend helps too and it was on firdya nights and not in school) but you get the picture, just send it to a body shop spend the money and get it done, you be so happy in the end, cuz I went form having a POS. car I would have junked by now but I cant cuz it so sweet looking, not to mention I also painted al the black molding body color and remove it from the doors, gives it the stealth look.
i have my car in the showroom under Brian Larkin and my website in my signature.
I’m not trying to offend anyone, that just my opinion.

and my dad tried just reclear in 1/4 panel on hosu crown vic where the paint is peeling, well even though I feather edged it with 800 wet, you can still see the color line, cuz you need to rebase and reclear the entire panel. Just my $.02 , and i hope the 4 years of Collision Repair and refinishing pays off.


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Brian J Larkin
1988 Turbo Coupe 5spd, dark blue and shining like a peice of polished glass.
http://crazydriver358.5u.com
Brian Larkin
88TC 330,000 miles
Slightly Modified
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Grant Offline
Member
#6
Brian you went to school for paint? I'm at a tech school right now for refinishing/minor dents. VERY true that you'll always be able to see most any "touch up". Best thing to do is spray the whole car, but if the paint is good, has good adhesion, and no dents that the owner is worried about, I'd still say just wetsand off the clear, and reclear the entire car. I used all PPG on mine, and I love it. Dupont's ChromaBase is great also though. Use a high quality paint if you want a high quality finish [Image: smile.gif] Later

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83 TC : full 3" exhaust, 17" 93 cobra wheels, many mods awaiting install once the engine's back in Smile
83 TC : full 3" exhaust, 17" 93 cobra wheels, many mods awaiting install once the engine's back in Smile
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#7
My school was a four year course I took, kinda instead of my normal high school I studied collision repair technology. It was under and academy program so I have more credits then a normal high school diploma, etc., I was the first class to do this in the state of New Jersey, so we were looked upon as the guinea pigs, out of 24 original students only 12 graduated form this. but at my school we also has a Dance and drama academy which is like mine except they study drama and dance, total graduating class this year was 42, so I have a academy diploma, and unfortunately if I go to like a tech school for college etc., they would teaching me the same thing in learn in the academy , so its not really worth it even though i really want to, iv dreamed of building custom street rods and show vehicles. just i don have the money to make mine what i want it to be.
Dupont is good paint, but he clear goes on a lil weird, reason why i sanded my whole car when done, I say the best in my opinion is Glazerith is the best, but very very expensive, but I lie using Diamont, which is a sister product of Glazerith. Again more of my opinion on paint.


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Brian J Larkin
1988 Turbo Coupe 5spd, dark blue and shining like a peice of polished glass.
http://crazydriver358.5u.com
Brian Larkin
88TC 330,000 miles
Slightly Modified
Reply

Turbobob_dup1 Offline
Member
#8
Definitely go with these guys. If your paint is as bad as you say then send it to or prep it yourself(alot of work to do properly)and send to a reputable body shop. You'll be much happier seeing NO dips and dents.
I just finished my car and it looks good but I'm still gonna block and buff it 'cause it's not yet perfect [Image: wink.gif]

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More Boost!!
'87 turbocoupe finally done!! Pics soon.
87 Turbocoupe,T3/T4 turbo,much porting,AFPR,255lph pump,GN cooler,K&N in fender,gutted upper/knifed lower,big valve head,A237 cam ,60mm throttle body,Talon 1G BPV.
4 + 1 = 8!!
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RiglerTKE Offline
Member
#9
The paint is not bad and the car is straight except for some monor dings. The clear coat is just fading and chipping.
Todd Rigler
87 TC Stock except for brake swap.
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Turbobob_dup1 Offline
Member
#10
If by chipping you mean the front clip getting stone chips , then get a bottle of touch up paint and carefuly with a tooth pick or 000 fine brush dab paint in the chips .

As for the paint if it is just faded then I would highly recomend taking it to a detail shop and have them give it a high speed buff with mild abrasive compound and a good glaze too.That should remove the bad paint from the top of the paint and leave a smoth finish.

I own a detail shop and have done this many times. amkes a big difference.

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More Boost!!
'87 turbocoupe finally done!! Pics soon.
87 Turbocoupe,T3/T4 turbo,much porting,AFPR,255lph pump,GN cooler,K&N in fender,gutted upper/knifed lower,big valve head,A237 cam ,60mm throttle body,Talon 1G BPV.
4 + 1 = 8!!
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