Check Engine Light

I just fixed the major oil leak that turned out to be the dip stick that wasn't properly seated in the engine block hole. I had torque the bracket that attaches to the intake to make it have downforce to keep the dip stick in the hole.

Anyway, while I was down there working on it, I noticed the ground strap wasn't connected. So I connected it to one of the transmission bolts. Now I get the check engine light after driving for a few minutes. I guess I have to go run the codes...

I tried 2 or 3 times to get the dipstick tube to stop leaking. Pushed it down, siliconed it. Still leaked. Take the dipstick tube to the hardware store and get the right size o-ring. No more leak here. Dunno about the check engine light.

Crankcase is a sealed system, and a leak at the dipstick can causecthe PCM to compensate for unmetered air. Sealing it up can cause the PCM th relearn LTFT correctio factors, resulting is at CEL for a while. See if the CEL goes out after a while.

Thanks guys for the input. I put just a little RTV around the end of the dipstick and twisted the dipstick bracket quite a bit to make sure the dipstick stayed seated. That cured the major oil leak.

I ran the codes and was getting a 41. So I replaced the HEGO sensor and things seem to be running better with no CEL!

I also had a coolant leak at the water outlet. So I flushed the cooling system, replaced the oil cooler heater hoses, water neck and thermostat (192-195 deg). It runs much cooler now.

Now I've developed a power steering fluid leak and a noisy PS whine. The PS fluid level is fine, but is really noisy! Man, it's just one fluid leak after another with this car.

To date, I've fixed:
1. Transmission fluid leak - new trans cooler lines
2. Oil leak - oil dipstick
3. Coolant leak - heater hoses and water neck

Now a PS leak!