North American Turbocoupe Organization



Check Engine Light
TCx2 Offline
Senior Member
#1
I am getting an intermittant CEL. Happens after the car has warmed up. I can be running down the road all day, and nothing, but then pull up to a stop light and it might come on. Soon as I am moving again it goes off.

Put a code reader on the car today at my buddies shop. (no the CEL wasn't on) No codes to report.

Five minutes later driving home it came on at a traffic light. Went off soon as I got moving again.

O2 sensor you think?

What do 02 sensors go for in these?



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Kevin
TCx2
88 White TC, 5spd, Loaded
01 Zinc Yellow Cobra
67 Green Ford Fairlane 390 4spd
Kevin
TCx2
67 Green Ford Fairlane 428CJ 5spd
89 Fiji Blue Chrysler Conquest
03 Mercury Marauder "Supercharged"
03 Ford Excursion(King of the SUVs)
04 Mustang Cobra - Screaming Yellow
10 Challenger R/T "Supercharged"
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#2
If the check engine light did come on, it should have stored a trouble code which you should have picked up, unless you waited for like a long time to pull the code and the condition no longer existed. i think the EEC clears the Continuous memory codes on the 41st engine start/warm up cycle if the fault hasn't reoccurred within that time.

It would pretty much be a guess for someone to tell you what they think is wrong causing your check engine light to come on, without you having any codes to provide.

JT

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JT
[email protected]
www.geocities.com/turbocpe/
1987 T-Bird Turbo Coupe T-5
1997 T-Bird LX 4.6L
1988 T-Bird Turbo Coupe A4LD
1979 T-Bird Heritage 351M
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
You should have gotten some kind of code for the continous codes. Did you get a code 11 - OK, for each part of the test?
Are you having any actual symptoms of anything?


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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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Jonesy Offline
Senior Member
#4
Never had a problem with my CEl but my DANG BRAKE light stays on and I can't figure out for the life of me why!!! lol She's possessed I tell ya!!

Jonesy

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©2002 Jonesy Inc.
Michael "Jonesy" Jones
87 Medium Red Clearcoat Metallic 5 speed
2 Tone Leather Interior, All options including factory sunroof/moonroof
168,500 miles - So Far
Mainly stock, K&N Filter, custom ram air
New paint job COMING SOON(repainting factory med. red with ghost flames.)
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Gregg Offline
Senior Member
#5
Quote:Originally posted by Jonesy:
Never had a problem with my CEl but my DANG BRAKE light stays on and I can't figure out for the life of me why!!! lol She's possessed I tell ya!!

Jonesy

Mine does the same thing! I just took the bulb out, because it began to piss me off so much...

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1987 TC 5 Speed
K&N Cone mounted on the VAM, soon to be front mounted, Disconnectd BCS
Gregg
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gddevil1 Offline
Member
#6
my break light stays on also, I think that the spring on the e-brake pedal is getting weak and dosn't hold it up off the trigger for the light. If I pull up on the pedal it goes out.....

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1988 tc-
3" atr downpipe
2.5" atr duals
k&n cone
all else stock..
for now
1988 tc-
3" atr downpipe
2.5" atr duals
k&n cone
Gillist Boost valve
centerforce clutch
3G alt. from Pa- performance
all else stock..
for now
NATO member
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
If you guys are talking the red brake light, reach down with your foot behind the E brake pedal and lift the pedal toward you. If the light goes out the switch needs adjustment.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham


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Jonesy Offline
Senior Member
#8
That use to work lifting the e-brake with my foot but for the last , oh, 50,000 miles it still stays on, wonder if the sensor is just stuck pressed in, hmm, I might have to look into this.

Jonesy

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©2002 Jonesy Inc.
Michael "Jonesy" Jones
87 Medium Red Clearcoat Metallic 5 speed
2 Tone Leather Interior, All options including factory sunroof/moonroof
168,500 miles - So Far
Mainly stock, K&N Filter, custom ram air
New paint job COMING SOON(repainting factory med. red with ghost flames.)
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fred k Offline
Senior Member
#9
One thing to check is your break fluid level. If it's low this turns on the light. Also, if your emergency break release lever is loose, this can also cause it. I've had both problems in the past.
fred l kennedy
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