Just been there, just done that.
No the bearings are not pressed on.
The Axle serves as the inner race on the bearing.
You will need.
Gasket for the pumpkin. Actually Ford just uses a form of silicon gasket material but Ford also sells the gasket. I chose to use both. <G>
2 Qts of 75w-150w rear end lube. ( I bought it from Ford)
The Ford oil is about $17 a qt. It is synthetic.
1 6 ounce bottle of friction modifier.
$12
Two bearings, and two seals. (don't remember what they cost but chicken feed compared to the lubes)
Might want to be leaning forward in the trench and locate sliding pins. If you have one frozen it could be ugly. Worth while getting some lube for the sliding pins and lube them.
Steps go something like this.
Loosten wheel nuts.
Lift car.
Check to see if the fill plug on the rear end can be taken out. If this is frozen better get ready to over come that before you do anything else. Sucks to drain the fluid THEN find out you can't get fluid back in.
Remove wheels.
Remove disc caliper.
Remove disc caliper support bracket.
Remove rear cover on rear end. ( I actually did this earlier, but if you have a problem with the disc brakes etc, why drain out the oil only to find out you can't complete the job)
Remove small retaining bolt. If this puppy breaks, and the damn things DO.. good luck!
Remove big center pin.
Push in on axles and remove C-clips.
Pull axles out gently.
Inspect axles where they ride on the bearing. They are notorious for going bad. I had to replace one of my axles. Of course if you aren't hearing any noise back there you are probably ok.
Just as you get the very tip of the axle ALMOST out of the tube, just use the axle like a pry bar to pull the old seals. As long as you are clear of the bearing, no problem.
PAY ATTENTION TO HOW DEEP THE BEARING IS SET. MAKE A MENTAL NOTE. So when you put the new ones in you can be confident of how far you need to drive them into the axle tubes.
Slide hammer bearing puller is a must. I didn't have the fancy attachment so I used a two claw one. You will have to set it up as best you can on the inside of the bearing. Make sure your eyes are protected and wail away. What will happen is you will break the cage and knock out some roller bearings. With my puller this HAD to be done or I couldn't get a purchase on the outer race. Once I broke the cage, I was home free. Reseated the puller claws on the race and pulled the bearing.
Make sure there is no debri left in the axle tube (roller bearings have a habit of going that way also) I used a magnetic bolt picker upper. (ok.. what is the correct name?)
Use a BIG socket that is slightly smaller than the bearing to drive it back in.
Then put the seal up and do the same.
After that it is pretty much a reverse of taking things apart. I changed my rear disc pads also because I had a frozen slider pin which cause accelerated wear on one side.
[email protected] if you have any other questions.
------------------
Kevin
TCx2
88 White TC, 5spd, Loaded
88 Black TC, 5spd, Base
87 LtBlue TC, 5spd,Loaded
