North American Turbocoupe Organization



Changing fuel pump is so easy!!
RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#1
I did my fuel pump today because I "thought" my car shutting off was due to the pump going bad, but as you guys read in my other post it was the shrader valve in the fuel line that was leaking ad causing the fuel pressure drop.

ANYWAY, I have always been scared of doing a fuel pump and have paid upwards of $150 to have soemone install the pumps. NEVER AGAIN!! cant believe how easy, fast, and simple it is. took me about 30 minutes with 1/2 a tank of gas still in tank! All I did was place the rear end on jacks stands and take my floor jack and place it a little to the driver side of the tank. I used the jack to keep the tank in place until I took the tank straps loose. I also remove the filler pipe bracket where the tank and filler pipe meet.(8mm screw)I lowered the tank down in an angle just enough to get the securing ring off the pump housing and enough to pull pump out with ease. I pulled it out and plugged the new one in, drooped it back in the tank in less than 15 minutes. I didnt removed the fuel lines or external wire connetions(I did disconnect the battery of course). Its was super easy. Just wanted to share. Again, I will never pay to have someone else do it again.
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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86XR7auto Offline
Moderator
#2
Says the man whose cars never see salt. Its a pretty easy job like you described. I still have the original metal tank on the XR7. My 88TC has a new plastic style.

Travis
86XR7 in pieces...old time [email protected] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGsz7PdEqTI 88TC stock Red RHSC [email protected], 01 Z71=Nice winter ride, 01 CVLX w/HPP wifes ride!
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#3
You Cali guys have it easy..... doing a pump on an older car from the rust belt is much worse. Strap bolts rusted in, pins that hold the straps at the rear end rotted, pump (and fuel sender) locking rings rusted in to bad it takes a 5 lb sledge to get it off (meaning bend / break it off), requiring a new lock ring from Ford ($12 for a 2 oz piece of stamped metal).
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Quote:Originally posted by Jeff K:
You Cali guys have it easy..... doing a pump on an older car from the rust belt is much worse. Strap bolts rusted in, pins that hold the straps at the rear end rotted, pump (and fuel sender) locking rings rusted in to bad it takes a 5 lb sledge to get it off (meaning bend / break it off), requiring a new lock ring from Ford ($12 for a 2 oz piece of stamped metal).
Wow! I didnt know you guys had it that bad. I did use PB blaster on my bolts, so I dont know if they were rusted or not, plus I used my impact gun. I can get those metal lock rings all day long. I will start collecting them for the next guy who needs one.
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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gump Offline
Junior Member
#5
Speaking of this, does anyone have a right up on changing the fuel pump? Pictures? I think this is my next project, need to know what to expect.
1987 TC white/red 5-speed, 170K miles, Amsoil cone filter, Gillis, exhaust/no cat, BoPort valve springs, Amsoil fluids, Xplod stereo
1970 Plymouth Duster, 408, pro-street/drag car
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zip Offline
Member
#6
Quote:Originally posted by gump:
Speaking of this, does anyone have a right up on changing the fuel pump? Pictures? I think this is my next project, need to know what to expect.
It's an easy job like has been said.

Raise and support the rear end with jack stands. Use a floor jack under the tank and remove the two straps holding it up. You will need to unbolt the filler tube as well.

Lower the tank slowly with the jack, making sure the wires/hoses aren't being pulled on. Once you have the tank down you can remove the connections and pull the tank out or you can just remove the lock ring on the pump assembly where the tank sits.

Replace the pump and reinstall.
Matt
86 TC 5spd:QH/SD,Walbro190,CFI 52#, AFPR,WB,FMIC,3"dp to axle, .63 T3, E6,Stock Longblock.
Shelf:N/A 2.3, Die grinder, Carbide Burrs.
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vinnietbird Offline
Senior Member
#7
I did my last fuel pump swap in 6 minutes.....I have a bitchin' access panel in the trunk. No more dropping the tank. I had pumps go bad, and more often than not, in the worst times, in places that I didn't have jack stands, floor jack, etc. SO, I made the access panel so I can swap it any parking lot in a few minutes.
1988 Thunderbird. No details will be given or spoken of.
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russ c Offline
Senior Member
#8
Quote:Originally posted by RDOG:
Quote:Originally posted by Jeff K:
[b] You Cali guys have it easy..... doing a pump on an older car from the rust belt is much worse. Strap bolts rusted in, pins that hold the straps at the rear end rotted, pump (and fuel sender) locking rings rusted in to bad it takes a 5 lb sledge to get it off (meaning bend / break it off), requiring a new lock ring from Ford ($12 for a 2 oz piece of stamped metal).
Wow! I didnt know you guys had it that bad. I did use PB blaster on my bolts, so I dont know if they were rusted or not, plus I used my impact gun. I can get those metal lock rings all day long. I will start collecting them for the next guy who needs one. [/b]
On a rust free car it is easy, but it can quickly turn into a disaster on a rust belt car. I have ended up changing the pump, pump hanger assy, straps, tank and fuel lines on a vehicle only 7yrs old, when I lived in Western New York State. That is one of the main reasons I will never live in the rust belt again.
86TC Saved from certain death
88TC Gave its life so other TCs could live.
88TC DD.
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RDOG Offline
Posting Freak
#9
My biggest issue is I have always been afraid of gas ever since my neighbor blew darn near half his face and chest off by knocking of the metal ring with a metal screwdriver and tank filled with half a tank of gas. Be sure to use a brass punch or plastic punch. I have heard of guys using a screwdriver wrapped with gobs of electrical tape, but my face and life are worth more to me than taking any chances.

I am curious though.... Why is there no explosion in tank when + - wires on pump are submerged in gas?
1986 Turbo Coupe. Boport StageIII head, Boport 2.1, Performance Techniques 50 trim hybird, StageII.63, stinger 3" exhaust, Phenolic spacer, Boglog header,NPR FMIC intercooler setup, kirban fpr, bigrmotorsports fuel rail, diablo water meth kit, CAI, remote mount TFI, CHE rear adj control arms, MAC girdle, 8.8 rear disc, aluminum drive shaft, H&R lowerings springs Tbird Turbo Specific, y MAS!!
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russ c Offline
Senior Member
#10
Quote:Originally posted by RDOG:


I am curious though.... Why is there no explosion in tank when + - wires on pump are submerged in gas?
Gaoline is not an electrical conductor, as long as you have good connections there will be no spark.
86TC Saved from certain death
88TC Gave its life so other TCs could live.
88TC DD.
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