North American Turbocoupe Organization



car dies while driving
rich Offline
Member
#1
Need some help from the pros....

For the last few days, after driving for about half hour or so, the engine just stalls. Seems to happen most around 3k rpms or so, never happens when the engine is cold.

When it dies, my accesories (like blower fan) remain working. So I don't think it is a ground prob.

Fuel pump is about 3 months old and pressure was on the money last time I checked it.

I pulled codes and found nothing related to TFI or pip in running or stored codes.

I bypassed the inertia temporarily and it did the same thing.

When it stalls, I coast to the side of the road, turn the key off, and it restarts right away.

If I keep it in gear when it stalls (like if I am on the highway and can't get over right away), in a couple secs, it starts back up again without touching the key.

How do I go about troubleshooting this one???

Thanks
Rich
2.3L Turbo in 88 stang, browntops, 93 a4ld, volvo ic, broncoII rad, gillis valve set @15, k&n af.
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Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Does it happen when accellerating or coasting ?

Maybe dirty or bad IAC, Ignition Switch, Vac Leak ?????
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#3
Could be lots of things. If you leave it in gear when it dies, does the tach drop right to zero, or does it slowly drop with engine speed as you coast down. If tach drops slowly with RPM, the problem is not ignition related. If tach does drop immediately to zero, you have an electrical problem, like TFI (but that will usually set an IDM code) or ignition switch interrupting power to coil and TFI. Could also be intermittant EEC power relay, wiring, etc.

If tach slowly drops with RPM while coasting down in gear, measure fuel pressure while driving to see it it drops, and car dies afer pressure goes below 20 psi or so. If this happens, fuel pump is cutting out for some reason, like bad pump, relay, wiring problem.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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rich Offline
Member
#4
Thanks guys.

Jeff, the rpms drop immediately to zero and if I leave it in gear, it catches in a few secs and jumps back up again.

I am wondering why I wouldn't get a code though, if it was TFI? Can the TFI be bad or intermittent and not throw a code?

I replaced the ignition switch and it still does it.

I also tryed a different EEC with the same results.

Rich

[This message has been edited by rich (edited 01-07-2004).]

[This message has been edited by rich (edited 01-07-2004).]
2.3L Turbo in 88 stang, browntops, 93 a4ld, volvo ic, broncoII rad, gillis valve set @15, k&n af.
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Pete D Online
Administrator
#5
Rich, could be a bad/broken wire making intermitten circuit. You might want to check the connector/wiring to the ignition switch and at the distributor. at the switch, when the circuit brakes, it won't set a code because it would be like turning off the key.
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
With motor idling, try wiggling the harness and connector to the TFI, coil, etc, and see if you can get it to die.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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rich Offline
Member
#7
Ok, before I left work I wiggled every connector that could possibly be related to this prob (ign switch, tfi, coil, FI ground, FP connector, and almost every other one I could get my hands on and it did not stall while idling.

However, the braided ground that goes from the E6 top the firewall seemed just a little loose, so I tightened that bolt up that holds the ground wire in place.

This is the first time I could drive the car for an hour without it stalling once.

Now, I wonder, was it some sort of fluke, or could that ground wire have caused it to stall the way it was doing? Is that the only ground that goes from the engine to the car's frame?

Thanks again

Rich
2.3L Turbo in 88 stang, browntops, 93 a4ld, volvo ic, broncoII rad, gillis valve set @15, k&n af.
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Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#8
That's the only ground but it usually goes from the firewall to the top driver's side bolt between the block and bell housing. Not sure why or who put your's to the E6 ???

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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rich Offline
Member
#9
Dan

I don't know why it is like that, but I can move it to the location u talked about, no prob. I guess having it on the e6 is not the best place, considering how rusty those bolts are.

Can someone also tell me where the stock location for the negative battery cable gets grounded?

I really feel like this may be a ground problem now, as I checked everything else.

Thanks!
Rich
2.3L Turbo in 88 stang, browntops, 93 a4ld, volvo ic, broncoII rad, gillis valve set @15, k&n af.
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Dan E Offline
Posting Freak
#10
The Negative Battery Cable is grounded to the bottom front bolt holding the Alternator Bracket to the block as I recall.
Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd Vermillion Red, Polished...everything...
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