cant pull abs codes

To again verify, if an abs sensor is not detected, the antilock light will be on all the time. Furthermore you will not be able to pull codes until the sensor is fixed.

Ask me how I know...

BTW when it is fixed, you don't have to drive over 25MPH to clear this error, it just starts working correctly.

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Joe F.

JR's Place - My 87 TC

[This message has been edited by JoeCool (edited 05-17-2005).]

Joe, not sure if that reply is for me, but no 12 volts to the ABS module will result in the same thing.

While your suggestion is a good possibility due to your reasons, all i'm saying is the first step in the book is to check for voltage at the ABS module. Just providing input for the person should they want it.

Originally posted by JoeCool:
If an abs sensor is not detected, the antilock light will be on [b]all the time.[/B]

Then why did I have an "open" sensor and the light only came on when moving?? I wouldn't think it would matter if just one or both the center core and shielded cable were broken, but on mine it was only the shielding that was broken (I spliced in a complete new length anyway). Would that be a factor on the difference??

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88 Silver T/C, original owner, 260,000 miles.
Loaded with everything except leather & auto trans.
K&N, Gillis(18 psi), SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust.
Short block & turbo original/untouched.
Spec-II/III combo clutch assembly ordered.
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16's.

JT, no worry, not directed at you. Just trying to establish the way the circuit really works with opens/shorts of sensors for future reference.

PetzJC, I have no explanation why you saw what you did. Perhaps your cable was borderline, not completely open? All I'm trying to establish is how the circuit is supposed to work (and did on my 87) when continuity to the sensor is lost. FWIW my shield was also broken, with center conductor still good. I also spliced new cable in, and problem went away as soon as the key was turned on. Also at that time I was able to pull codes whereas before the cable was repaired I could not.

The reason it operates like that is to let you know before the car is moved that there is a major ABS problem. Makes sense, yes?

BTW RG-58 coaxial cable works well for this repair. Just make sure that it's not solid center conductor, that it's the good stranded center-conductor stuff.

HTH

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Joe F.

JR's Place - My 87 TC

[This message has been edited by JoeCool (edited 05-17-2005).]

Joe...no issues. I understand exactly what you are saying as far as how it is supposed to work. It seems sometimes the ABS system has a mind of its own. (The other example it spitting out the wrong code...2x vice 3x that both JeffK (I believe) and I had experienced).

I used a digital Fluke meter. Ohm'd it out on a couple different resistance settings. Who knows...could have been the Fluke.

Would have liked to see you and your car at Carlisle this year.....It will be my first.

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88 Silver T/C, original owner, 260,000 miles.
Loaded with everything except leather & auto trans.
K&N, Gillis(18 psi), SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust.
Short block & turbo original/untouched.
Spec-II/III combo clutch assembly ordered.
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16's.

wire colors would help as there are 200 wires going into the connecter. thanks. i did try the pink one with just the key on and the car not running found nothing.

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1966 mustang
1988 tbird

I just figured that I wasn't explaining myself properly (a common occurance) and didn't want to start pulling my (thinning) hair out! [Image: biggrin.gif]

IMHO all computers, regardless of location and type are subject to the weirdness I call gremlins. Anymore I just shrug my shoulders and say "go figure", and take it as it comes!

I was planning on Carlisle since last June, and it's a big dissapointment to me that I can't be there. Unfortunately my wife has this thing about paying the mortgage, though. [Image: biggrin.gif] I'm really going to miss seeing all my old friends and will definately miss out on meeting new ones. Hopefully things will be somewhat stabilized by next year; we'll see.


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Joe F.

JR's Place - My 87 TC

You want to check for 12 volts at the Grey/Yellow wire and Light Green/Yellow wires.

Originally posted by JoeCool:
...and didn't want to start pulling my (thinning) hair out! [Image: biggrin.gif]

Boy do I know what you are talking about!!

.....seeing all my old friends and will definately miss out on meeting new ones.

Yeah...looking forward to meeting all these Ya-Who's behind their computer screen names...except for Dan S...been there done that!! LOL. Come to think of it, if the rest of you are anything like Dan?!?! [Image: eek.gif]

Sorry Dan, had to go there.... [Image: biggrin.gif]

------------------
88 Silver T/C, original owner, 260,000 miles.
Loaded with everything except leather & auto trans.
K&N, Gillis(18 psi), SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust.
Short block & turbo original/untouched.
Spec-II/III combo clutch assembly ordered.
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16's.

ug so i have power to the abs unit. what would inhibit me from pulling codes? or maybe im trying to pull them the wrong way

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1966 mustang
1988 tbird