North American Turbocoupe Organization



cant get anything to work right!!!
boosted85 Offline
Senior Member
#1
just got an 88 turbo coupe perfect very happy with the car just not happy with some of the things its doin, main concern is the brakes both lights are on and i have tried the diagnosis and nothing, i dont know what to do i need brakes cuz its a hard pedal
Complete custom downpipe to tail pipe 3in exhaust, ranger cam, cran double valve springs, stock dsm bov switchin out for a good aftermarket, cone filter, fmi 2.5in piping, walbro 342hp, aeromotive fpr, fuel pressure 45 base, 17in cobra R's, steel braided oil feed line, 96lb injectors, megasquirt 1 v2.2, msd blaster 2 coil 86 t3 48, innovative lc1 wideband,
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#2
Does the pump come on when the key is turned to ON.
Pump the brakes several times with the key OFF. Turn key ON, you should hear the pump, under the hood, run from a few to several seconds.

Did you check the brake fluid level?
Pete Dunham


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TurboCoupe50 Offline
Posting Freak
#3
Hard pedal is going to probably mean no pump action... Can you hear it run when ign sw is first on??? My guess is no, which usually means the control relay is bad... The ABS relays are mounted beside the clutch slave cylinder, motor control relay is the first one(farthest from firewall)...
1988 Turbo Coupe331 AOD

1972 Comet GT

1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 4-Speed
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
See the tech articles for brake testing
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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boosted85 Offline
Senior Member
#5
which one is the pump relay again cuz there is 2 relays right next to the clutch res
Complete custom downpipe to tail pipe 3in exhaust, ranger cam, cran double valve springs, stock dsm bov switchin out for a good aftermarket, cone filter, fmi 2.5in piping, walbro 342hp, aeromotive fpr, fuel pressure 45 base, 17in cobra R's, steel braided oil feed line, 96lb injectors, megasquirt 1 v2.2, msd blaster 2 coil 86 t3 48, innovative lc1 wideband,
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
The one towards the front of the car.
Pete Dunham


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boosted85 Offline
Senior Member
#7
i tried to jump that and only got a big spark and didnt want to do it anymore cuz it didnt seem right
Complete custom downpipe to tail pipe 3in exhaust, ranger cam, cran double valve springs, stock dsm bov switchin out for a good aftermarket, cone filter, fmi 2.5in piping, walbro 342hp, aeromotive fpr, fuel pressure 45 base, 17in cobra R's, steel braided oil feed line, 96lb injectors, megasquirt 1 v2.2, msd blaster 2 coil 86 t3 48, innovative lc1 wideband,
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boosted85 Offline
Senior Member
#8
well i did it and got a big spark like it says and still nothing
Complete custom downpipe to tail pipe 3in exhaust, ranger cam, cran double valve springs, stock dsm bov switchin out for a good aftermarket, cone filter, fmi 2.5in piping, walbro 342hp, aeromotive fpr, fuel pressure 45 base, 17in cobra R's, steel braided oil feed line, 96lb injectors, megasquirt 1 v2.2, msd blaster 2 coil 86 t3 48, innovative lc1 wideband,
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Bill S. Offline
Senior Member
#9
did you try sending power to the pump directly? (as per the article)

could just be a bad relay
'88 TC T5
'85 XR7 Roller
Mods on hold pending swap.
Stinger header & mBC on shelf
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Martin Offline
Senior Member
#10
A quick check, real quick ( just to make sure your Pump motor or pressure switch are not shorted out) to jump a wire from the battery positive to the Grey/Red wire, that feeds power to the Pump Motor, which you can get to by unplugging the Pump Motor connection, it is the round connection on the pump. Make sure you get a good solid connection on the wiring to the pump than touch the other end of the wire to the Positive battery post, the pump motor should turn on. You will also have to run a wire from the pump connection, the GRay wires on the pump plug to a good ground, battery neg is good for this.
If the pumps winds over, its good. Try these basic checks. On the starter relay there will be a number of "fusible links" connected to it. Find the one that has a Tan/Yellow wire splice into it. THis is the feed to the Hydraulic pump relay. Don't need the ignition switch on for this. Probe the wire and make sure you have power after the fusible link. BEst place would be right at the Pump Relay block itself. Just find the wire and make sure that there is power on the Tan/Yellow going into the block that the relay is mounted on. No Power, fusible link is blown and has to be replaced. The fusible link if blown is gone for a reason! W can get into that later if need be.
If there is power there, now turn on the igniton switch to the run position. Find the GRay/Red wire(s) coming out of the Relay block and check for power there. No power the relay is not working. THere can be 2 reasons for this. One the relay itself is faulty or there is no power going from the igniton switch to activate the relay.
To check for the activation power to the relay. Do this by probing the wire colour Gray/Yellow, again at the block under the relay. THis power should turn off and on with the igntion switch.
Try these and get back on the site. I only have a few minutes a day to check out whats happening and will get back to you as soon as I can.
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low
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