Can you change rod bearings with the engine still in the car?

A few months ago, I had the turbo oil-feed line start leaking on my 88TC 5spd. Only I didn't know it until I had driven my car around 8 miles home with almost no oil in it. The car sat parked until I could get a new line, fill it up with oil, and inspect for any leaks. Everything seemed fine except when I would put load on the engine at around 2200-2700rpm, there was a slight knock/ticking sound. I thought maybe some gunk had gotten in the engine from my also replacing the valve cover gasket so I went and had the oil changed again. The knock/tick almost completely went away, I could barely hear any kind of similar sound at any rpm so I was happy. Then, about a month ago, I was out playing around in town racing my brother's altima (nothing serious or unsafe, just hard 1st and 2nd gear acceleration), and the knock/tick sound came back big time. Now it's noticeable from 1700 to around 3500rpm, and it's a little louder than it was. I was reading over some new and old posts from the search engine, and I realized that the knocking sound isn't present when the car is first started and driven in the mornings, and from what other posts have said, that means rod bearings. The car still has amazing power and runs excellent, although it's been a few weeks since I dared to play in it. With the car sitting in the driveway, I can hold in the clutch and rev the engine and get the knocking sound so I'd like to rule out the tranny. The reason that I use the knock/tick word is that I've heard rod knock in a car before, and this is nowhere near as loud as that. Maybe the beginning stages of bearings going south? I don't know, and that's why I'm asking you guys about it. If it happens to be the rod bearings, what are the chances that my crank is hurt? and is there any way to change the rod bearings without taking the engine out of the car. I'd most likely have a mechanic change the bearings, but I don't want them to rob me by saying that they have to do a bunch of stuff that needs to be done. What would you say my options are? Any advice is welcomed. Thanks



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Kev
88 TC 5spd Black body, gray/black interior, K&N in front of the radiator, Gillis boost valve at 17 psi, internally polished throttle body, 2 1/2" dynomax ultraflow mandrel bent duals. Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, ported exhaust manifold, totally rebuilt head with Melling cam kit and a little port work
Pics are Here! http://members.cardomain.com/kevvsworld

Have you used the stethiscope/screwdriver handle in the ear to try to narrow down the area the noise is coming from?

Might want to look this post over also: http://natomessageboard.com/Forum1/HTML/013447.html

I haven't done it but I think it may be possible to do the rod bearings with the engine in the car. I think B_Lieder had his done that way. I can't say if it is or isn't rod bearings. If it is and it's due to oil stave then the crank could?? also be affected. I would still recommend trying to isolate the area of the noise further. Also get an actual oil pressure reading.


[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 03-20-2005).]

You can but its a bitch.You have to drop the k-member down to get the pan off as well as raise the motor up.I was in the process of doing a re-ring job to get motor up and running again for a while till the new one was done but turned out to be a PITA
so I bagged it and just pulled the motor.A rod will knock all the time unless the bearing is spinning in there and lining the oil holes up from time to time.

Never did rod bearings on a TC with the motor in the car, but MANY years back, I did the rods and mains with the motor in the car in a Dodge Dart with a 318 ci V8. By the time I was done, I wished I had just pulled the motor.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)

The good news is yes, the pan can be removed with the engine in the car....however it is a PITA. The round crossmember has to be removed, the engine mounts unbolted, and the engine has to be hoisted as high as possible, and then the pan barely slips off.

As mentioned already, try and use a stethoscope or screw driver to narrow down where the knock/tick is coming from, and possibly which cylinder.

The bad news is if it is a spun rod bearing, the rod journal and/or the crank journal probably is scored, which means the crank needs to be turned, and the rod should be replaced or machined. If this is the case, stop there and pull the motor.

A spun rod bearing does not always knock/tick at idle. Typically is will knock at higher RPM or under load.

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88 Silver T/C, original owner, 259,000 miles.
Loaded with everything except leather & auto trans.
K&N, Gillis(18 psi), SVO roller #1, big SS valves, ported intake, head, & exhaust.
Short block & turbo original/untouched.
Polyurethane bushings throughout, Goodyear GT-HR 235/55R16's.

Damn, I was afraid you guys were gonna say that. I hope it lasts til August! thanks

Kev