North American Turbocoupe Organization

Can the battery handle my stereo?
Import Killer Offline
Senior Member
I just got 2 12" 200 watt rockford fosgate subs and a 200 watt amp. Right now it hits hard, so hard my review mirror fell off. Anyway, I'm gonna put that amp onto my highs (sony xplod and pioneer speakers) and put a 300 watt amp on my subs to push them more. Now, my lights flicker a little if you really watch but nothing major. Will my battery be able to handle 2 amps without a problem? I just got a new battery and my alternator is good.

1987 Turbocoupe, black, 5-speed, all options besides leather and moonroof, 180K+ and running strong, MOMO shift knob and boot, mustang shifter (easier to reach), K&N cone air filter with cold air induction, dynomax super turbo exhaust, tinted windows, white faced indiglo gauges, sony XPlod and Pioneer speakers, Pioneer CD player, painted the faded red molding lines blue, painted interior parts blue, neon dome light, aftermarket foglights, runs great, eats rice for dinner.
Wanna see my beast?
1987 Turbocoupe
Painted sonic blue pearl
Ground effects w/S351 wing
17x9 Chrome Cobra Rs
255/45/ZR17 Kumho 712s
KYB suspension
MOMO shift knob and boot
K&N cone air filter, Gillis boost valve, T-3 turbo, ported intake and E6, A237 roller cam, MSD coil, Kirban FPR
Full 3" exhuast w/Ultra Flo muffler
Brute force clutch
White faced indiglo gauges
2 12" Rockford Fosgate subs and amp

natmac3 Offline
I can't speak to your specific combo, but I can tell you about mine. Typical run-of-the-mill Everstart battery, OEM spec alternator, Rockford Fosgate Punch250a2 running 2-12" Pioneer IMPP 450s and a Phoenix Gold M25 running two pioneer 6x8s in the rear deck. The whole sound system has been redone from the dash back, and I am having NO PROBLEMS. Hope this is reassuring! [Image: biggrin.gif]

Hey can that be the new slang for "systems",
"...I just gotta dash-back system put in..."

hehe [Image: biggrin.gif]

FlyByeBoy Offline
The question should be can your alternator handle it. The battery should but the alt may not be able to keep up with the load. If you see your lights flicker my opinion is you got something a little wacky. Might just be a weak alt.

88 TC X 2 One stock one not so stock.
Not So Stock 88 TC. 94 SHO w/5speed. (NATO Member)

natmac3 Offline
I've had friends' cars die at stoplites when the bass hits because of the draw from the amp(s)! A little dimming when you have it really rocking isn't out of the ordinary- not ideal- but not uncommon...

If you are too worried about it, run your power line as such:
Batt - Fuse (within 18") - Capacitor - Fused Distribution Block - Amps

A 1.0 Farad Cap should be more than enough- and you'll probly notice an increase in "boom".

thndr_chicken Offline
I have been doing stereos in cars for 20 years as a hobby and as a profession. I am also the proud owner of a 88 TC. I can tell you that the charging and electrical system in these cars is barely marginal for the stock equipment and power options. The right thing to do is to upgrade to a 130 amp 3G alternator (see FAQ's) and an Optima or Orbital battery. Over time your current setup will not keep up and you will find yourself stranded one day. The 130 amp alternator will supply plenty of charge to keep you going. The Optima or Orbital battery has very low internal resistance which means it can supply your system with the quick transients needed to make good hard bass beats without need for a stiffening capacitor. Unfortunately capacitors are used as band-aids by retailers to keep lights from dimming. They can help that problem, but adding a cap to a poor and barely marginal charging/battery system is just a waste of time. A cap is not a battery. It is a very short term storage device that will not fix your problem in the long run. Do the alternator and battery upgrade. Run a 4-gauge wire from the output of the alternator directly to the positive post of the battery. Run a 4-gauge or bigger wire to the amplifier location (properly fused of course). Don't forget the ground. Run a 4-gauge ground from the battery to the metal chassis of the vehicle in addition to any factory grounds. After all this you should be good to go and bump or boom or whatever suits your mood.

88 TC
Salvage yard long block doing fine
5-lug / big brake M-2300 kit coming soon
3" ATR downpipe / 3" single with Dynomax 3" Super Turbo muff
Fuel pump, adj. reg, and gauge coming soon
88 TC
Salvage yard long block doing fine
K&N in the fenderwell
5-lug conversion done / 17" Momo's on and looking good
Coil-overs up front, cut springs out back
Gillis valve
3" ATR downpipe / 3" single with Dynomax 3" Super Turbo muff
Fuel pump, adj. regulator coming soon
Boost and fuel pressure gauges are now in and functioning on the pillar
Did the heater core, what a pain!
Sequential flashers, thermostatically controlled forced air IC fan, and water injection all coming soon.

BJL Offline
i have a awia cd player, a sony 760 watt amp, goign to a daul vioce coil rock ford ten sub, i used ot be able to drop form 14volts to 11 volts at idle with my head lights on, i knwo upgraded to a 130amp 3g and can have my lights, fog lgihts, inside blower motor, aux. cooing fan and stereo fuill blast goign and be at 14.2 votls at idle that alt does a lot, im using a battery out of a 1994 F-Super Duty 7.3l deisel, it has a dual batteyr set up i have just one of them and it does well, ment to be used in the Ambulance Chassis

Brian J Larkin AKA Turbo
1988 Turbo Coupe 5spd
Twilight Blue
boost valve, k&n cone, glasspacks gettto rigged ram air, cracked header panel
Brian Larkin
88TC 330,000 miles
Slightly Modified

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