North American Turbocoupe Organization



buzzong from the computer?
Sean Story Offline
Senior Member
#1
i just put a clutch in my 88 tc 5spd. got it back on the road and i currently have 147 break in miles on it. i just tackled an electrical problem with my no tack and speedo and some other stuff, turned out to be fuse 18 witch was a 10 amp witch i replaced with a 15 but i fixed that before i did my clutch job...and it worked and it was fine till i was doing something in the yard and i hit my switch for my head lights...car wasn't running just used the battery.. the first thing i noticed was there was a buzzing and i poped the hood and theirs a black box on the passengers side of the car just steady buzzing and vibrating slightly. how do i fix that..also my voltage regulator is bad i believe because if i start the car with just the engine running no radio lights ect the tack needle is fine. if i flip the lights switch the needle drops to 500 rpm or 0 rpm and the speedo side of the cluster inset lit up the ford green it should..its half dead lol. and if i hit the turn signal the speedo needle jumps to 15 mph each time it flashes and my high beam light goes on and its just a mess....my slave cylinder for the clutch went out today also so i have to fix that any tips or anything that might be able to fix this problem?? help!!
S.STORY \ 88 TURBO (project 2.3) \ Laurel, Delaware 19956.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
First, replacing a fuse with one rated for more amps (replacng a 10 with a 15) is a great way to burn your car to the ground. Put the 10A back in, and if it blows, troubleshoot the problem and fix it right. You didnt "fix" anything by going to a higher amp fuse, you just caused possible serious problems down the road.

The black box isnt the "computer" (which is in the pass side kick panel), it is the IRCM, or relay box that contains the EEC power relay, fuel pump relay, 2 fan relays, and AC clutch relay. Buzzing relays is nearly always a ground problem. Be sure the IRCM is securely screwed to its bracket, and the bracket is firmly attached to the strut tower. Check the black 2 pin connector that comes off the neg batt terminal for looseness, corosion, etc. If that doesnt work report back.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Redbone Offline
Senior Member
#3
Quote:Originally posted by Jeff K:
First, replacing a fuse with one rated for more amps (replacng a 10 with a 15) is a great way to burn your car to the ground. Put the 10A back in, and if it blows, troubleshoot the problem and fix it right. You didnt "fix" anything by going to a higher amp fuse, you just caused possible serious problems down the road.

The black box isnt the "computer" (which is in the pass side kick panel), it is the IRCM, or relay box that contains the EEC power relay, fuel pump relay, 2 fan relays, and AC clutch relay. Buzzing relays is nearly always a ground problem. Be sure the IRCM is securely screwed to its bracket, and the bracket is firmly attached to the strut tower. Check the black 2 pin connector that comes off the neg batt terminal for looseness, corosion, etc. If that doesnt work report back.
+1

Like Jeff says, sounds like a ground problem.
All your boost are belong to us
1988 TC 5m 3" elbow back exhaust(with cat and muffler), Walbro 255, gillis mbc, airbox removed w/ K&N cone, A/C removed, Spec clutch, Ranger roller swap.

John A.
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Sean Story Offline
Senior Member
#4
ok i tightened the bolts and i hear no buzzing. now....how can i get my hands on a new voltage regulator for the back of the cluster??
S.STORY \ 88 TURBO (project 2.3) \ Laurel, Delaware 19956.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#5
The IVR (instrument voltage regulator) only affects the oil pressure gauge, temp gauge and fuel gauge. It has no bearing on the tach or speedo. If you still need one, try Ford.
Pete Dunham


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Sean Story Offline
Senior Member
#6
what controls the tack and speedo and the flashing lights for the cluster?
S.STORY \ 88 TURBO (project 2.3) \ Laurel, Delaware 19956.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
The speedo is electrical and driven off the transmission. Did you maybe not hook it up after the clutch job?

I sent you a couple emails
Pete Dunham


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