North American Turbocoupe Organization



burned up brand new Walbro
Michael Jordan Offline
Senior Member
#1
Well, the fuel pump replacement went fine. Car still ran like crap on the trip to Cedar Point. Still stumbling under boost and at about 3000 rpm and now I'm noticing alot of grey/black smoke when it stumbles. Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Interstate gas mileage was between 23 and 25 mpg. Ran fine as long as I stayed out of boost and under 3000. Also noticed some oil pooling on top of the turbo around the oil supply line connection.

O.K., so we get through the trip and home and let the car sit for a day and a half and I try to start it yesterday and the fuel pump isn't working. I haven't dug into it yet to find out if the pump is burned up, and probably won't until late next week, but have I screwed up the warranty by re-using the original filter sock? It was mentioned in a post that it should be reused. The kit that came with the fuel pump from JD's basically doesn't work for a TC, only Mustangs. I did not use their sock or O-ring or any other provided hardware except for the harness and connectors. They say in their instructions that if anything other than the things they provide is used , then the warranty is void.

Somebody, help me!!

MJ
1986 TC stock with full option package. K&N, DIY boost valve at 14 psi, Walbro 255.
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Walsted Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Did you check you inertia switch and Fuel Pump Relay? They are cheaper and easier to replace than a fuel pump.
Mike Walsted - Sold my 1986 5-speed TurboCoupe
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Michael Jordan Offline
Senior Member
#3
Relay still clicks and the inertia switch is not tripped. BTW, according to the Tech Article on fuel pump diagnostics the inertia switch on 83 to 86 TC's is in the coil side of the relay, not the power side to the pump. So, with that in mind, if the inertia switch was tripped wouldn't it disable the relay?

MJ
1986 TC stock with full option package. K&N, DIY boost valve at 14 psi, Walbro 255.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#4
Do you have a guage to check fuel presure?

What kind of shape was the connector on the pump flange in when you changed the pump?

I you end up needing a new pump, consider getting the Tbird specific one, #FPF021 from www.APEusa.com

Can always try running a jumper from batt pos to either the FP relay or inertia switch to see if the pump runs.

Pump ground could be corroded. It is a PITA to get to the ground, which is under the carpet, but you can access the ground wire to the pump in the trunk to ohm it out and see if the ground is intact.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Michael Jordan Offline
Senior Member
#5
The gauge is on my shopping list along with the code scanner.

All the connections on the outside of the flange seemed to be in good to excellent condition. All the connections inside the tank were in excellent condition.

Would a loose or faulty ground cause a pump to burn up?

When it comes to all the electrical stuff I really need guidance on where the wires are and exactly where I need to jumper or ground something.

Do you think the use of the original sock could have caused this?

Thanks.

MJ
1986 TC stock with full option package. K&N, DIY boost valve at 14 psi, Walbro 255.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#6
If the sock was clean, not clogged, then, no, it is not part of the problem.
Pete Dunham


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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
Bad pump ground causing the pump to burn out? Could be, nut not likely. If ground is high resistance, pump wont run, period. I can think of a highly unlikely case of the ground having, say, several ohms resistance due to corrosion, and the pump getting power, but not enough to get it to turn, causing windings to overheat, but again, unlikely.

See the fuel pump diagnostics article I wrote(not the fuel system diagnostics article Pete wrote) on the tech articles page for info on testing the fuel pump electrical system.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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darkthunder Offline
Senior Member
#8
Clogged fuel filter? Did you replace it when you installed the pump?
darkthunder - 85 TC// 302/C4
2009 Subaru WRX//daily driver
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Michael Jordan Offline
Senior Member
#9
Thanks to all.

The sock was not clogged as far as I could tell. I doubt that it would be a ground problem because the car has never been exposed to an extremely corrosive environment (i.e. wet weather, salt, etc.) unless it's the connector at the flange or my splice connections for the new harness. I'll study the FP diagnostics again and look for these possibilities when I get a chance to drop the tank. I did replace the inline fuel filter. All that was available at the time was a Fram. I hope that wouldn't be the problem.

Any thoughts on my rough running issues? Could it be fuel pressure regulator, or injectors? It's running very rich. Could this rough running have caused my turbo to leak oil?

MJ
1986 TC stock with full option package. K&N, DIY boost valve at 14 psi, Walbro 255.
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#10
If you got fuel issues, I would find and fix that, then see where the rough running issue is.
Pete Dunham


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