Broke BCS port and other vacuum questions

In going through again and testing all my hoses, I found the ones on the BCS weren't holding vacuum; they drained slowly.
So wouldn't you guess that I BROKE the port off the BCS trying to remove the hose to replace it.
I've planned on buying a gillis valve anyway, but in the mean time what can I do with this in order to still drive/run it safely? I've read fishtank valves are a mixed bag. At the very minimum, I want to be able to run it in neutral to diagnose my rough idle while waiting for the gillis.

Also, I found that the hose that T's into the vac tree/intercooler hose - the one that goes into the fender well (tree labeled s/c, speed control?) also does not hold a vacuum.
Should the speed control hold a vacuum?
This is the green hose from the diagram, that leaves the page-right. Without this hose, the entire line holds vacuum; even without the IC end being plugged. I can't blow through it either; must be a 2 way check valve?
Thanks!

If you take the 2 hoses going to the BCS and just plug both of them up, you will get the standard WG boost setting of 9 to 10 psi. If you connect the 2 hoses directly together, you will get about 17 psi. Put a valve between the 2 hoses, and adjust between 10 and 17. In the long run, Gillis is for sure the way to go.

Yes, there are several one way vac valves in the cruise control vac system.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)