Brake Replace Tools Needed

What tools are needed to replace the pads?
Besides a C-clamp is there a special size torque bit I need before I go about this.

Originally posted by MartyPA:
What tools are needed to replace the pads?
Besides a C-clamp is there a special size torque bit I need before I go about this.

The only special tool is for the rear calipers. It allows you to use a socket wrench to turn the pistons in on the rear calipers. DO NOT try and push them in...they screw in.

Did you mean torex not torque bit ? Because there aren't any torex bolt head to deal with.

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)

You need a Torx bit to remove the caliper guide pins ..... I think it is T-45 or T-50 in the front. I've done it before with an allen head, but wouldn't recommend it if you are re-using the pins. I have rear drums so not sure what the Torx bit is back there (if you have an 87/88).

You probably won't need a C-clamp, unless you need to spread the pads a bit to get the rotor off the wheel, once the guide pins are off. Once the rotor is off, you can pop out the pads by hand.

Anti-squeal grease on the back of the new pads.

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86 TC, 73 Mini, 72 Mini Van project (w/ LS-1 motor)

Click here to beat a ricer.

You will need the c-clamp to push the piston back in on the caliper on the front. It's a good idea to use one of the old pads between the clamp face and the piston so you don't hurt it. It's an easy job on the front, but the rears are a pain in the arse! The little tool that Dan mentioned helps, but a pair of opened needle nose pliers does the job too. Good luck!

Originally posted by philS:
You need a Torx bit to remove the caliper guide pins

I have never seen a torx head on either front or rear guide pins on my 88TC...maybe 83-86 ???

Originally posted by Dan E:
I have never seen a torx head on either front or rear guide pins on my 88TC...maybe 83-86 ???

Depends on if they have been replaced and where you get them.AZ used to sell replacements that had T-50 heads on them,but I think everyone has either allen or hex heads now.I would think due to the fact that the torx style almost ALWAYS are full of crapola and round off.because the bit doesn't go all the way in.
P.S.For those of you that have a harbour freight tools near by,they have a brake caliper tool set on sale until the 10th of Nov.,it come in a nice plastic case and has a spreader with several different size adapters to mount in the piston.looks like a decent piece and they are only $20 sale price.Gonna go get one for myself Monday,give you guys the low down then.
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"Finch....get the f*ck away from that fikas......that is a jizz-free fikas!"

[This message has been edited by Hybridbird (edited 11-01-2003).]

Thanks for the help guys!Fronts were beat and the replace was easy.5 minutes a side tops!No torx needed.The rears still look ok.This is my only vehicle so I didn't want to get into something that I may have to walk a few miles to get what parts I don't have! :]

The rears still look ok.

Besides pad thickness, did you check the floating caliper guide pins? My own experience, the rotors and pads were fine but the calipers were frozen. The slide pin boots wear out, letting the pins rust inside the brackets and ultimately freezing up the calipers.

>>I have never seen a torx head

Sorry, my bad. I'm on my third set of pins, so must be the first batch (Ford) were allen head, and the second were Torx.

They are now back to selling Allen-head pins at AutoZone.

Now I have a nice set of Torx bits for no reason ...

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86 TC, 73 Mini, 72 Mini Van project (w/ LS-1 motor)

Click here to beat a ricer.

IMPORTANT NOTE: On 87-88 with ABS, when pushing in front caliper pistons or screwing in rears, open the bleeder screws to vent the excess fluid out at the caliper. If you dont do that, the excess fluid will go back up thru the ABS valve body, and any dirt in the fluid can screw up the ABS valve body royally.

This is true for ANY car with ABS. I have heard lots of horror stories of people having to replace BIG $$$ ABS valve bodies / HCUs right after a brake job when they didnt vent the fluid out thru the bleeder screws.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)