ridgeback
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Joined:
Feb 2002
Milford,CT
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so since day one after engine repair I have noticed my RED brake light on but the brakes work fine. I messed with the parking brake pedal a bit but it had no effect. I will check the switch to this later as noted in FAQs but I am curious as to why it will flicker to off when under a decent boost then back on a second later? The braking is not effected at all. Is the brake system tied into the vacuum??
Ron
Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since 1990@21k, now@109k.
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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Long shot but have you checked the brake fluid level?
Pete Dunham
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Jeff K
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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Check the electrical connector on the master cylinder fluid fill cap to be sure it is fully seated if the fluid level is good.
FYI, the correct way to check the fluid level is to, with the key off, pump the brake pedal several times and then turn the key on and wait for the brake pump motor to stop running and then check the fluid level.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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ridgeback
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Joined:
Feb 2002
Milford,CT
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The brake fluid level is under the mark (see link).
[url=https://www.dropbox.com/s/q9cacnm26jkvhd1/IMG_Brake%20Fluid%20Level.JPG?dl=0][/url]
This level was taken after "with the key off, pump the brake pedal several times and then turn the key on and wait for the brake pump motor to stop running and then check the fluid level"
I will top it off when I get home from work and see what happens. I am hoping it is the cause of the light as I have other issues to working on. I just don't remember this being one them 3 years ago when it went into coma.
Ron
Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since 1990@21k, now@109k.
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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It definitely needs some fluid. Let us know how it works out.
Pete Dunham
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ridgeback
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Joined:
Feb 2002
Milford,CT
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"did you top off the brake fluid?"
ummm cmon it can't be that simple, its got to be a hair pulling issue..... topped it off with fluid and light went away after about 30 sec. of driving, DOH!
I guess sometimes you just need to step away and have another set of eyes on the issue at hand.
THANK GUYS!!!
Ron
Black 87 TC, 2nd owner since 1990@21k, now@109k.
Current Mods: Gillis valve @18psi. K&N Cone. Removed AC components, New: Esslinger Aux. Shaft, Seals, Melling Oil Pump, Heater core. Ranger cam & rollers, new tower bearings, Walbro 255 fuel pump
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anasazi4st
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Joined:
Feb 2015
Phoenix, AZ
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ridgeback Wrote:ummm cmon it can't be that simple, its got to be a hair pulling issue..... topped it off with fluid and light went away after about 30 sec. of driving, DOH!
Yeah from my experience that light (well, actually, the sensor that operates it) is pretty sensitive to the fluid level.
Another proud dues-paying member.
1987 Turbo Coupe w/T5OD, 8.8 axle, grey smoke; most options. Got it in 1991 with 41K miles: 3 turbos, 2 heater cores, 3 T5OD full rebuilds, 6 clutches, 1 head gasket, 2 Teves II ABS units, etc. later....
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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Ron, You were a big winner in this weeks roll of the dice. We have various criteria on how advice is given. Sometimes we give a response based on what goes wrong most frequently. Sometimes it's
based on whats cheapest to fix. Sometimes it's based on what's easiest to fix. You won in all 3 categories! :agreed:
Pete Dunham
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