Brake issue - please help

Update: ignition issue resolved. 
Replaced ignition switch and connector. Issue remained. Began investigating clutch switch and noticed what looked like a temporary repair job from previous owner. Must have come loose when using e-brake. Little bit of heat shrink and cable management and boom! Starts again with key. Thanks for all the tips! I’ll work on brakes again this weekend.

PLEASE, give serious consideration to the Fog Relay mod. I would consider it, after my experiences, to be a necessity.

In most TCs with the 5-speed transmission there is probably an empty connector under the dash next to the clutch neutral safety switch. From what I’ve read on various sites and in the manuals, that is a shorting bypass connector, which is used if you wanted to bypass the switch for whatever reason. Most likely, the safety switch is broken and you can’t start the car.

The small shorting piece looks like the one for the SPOUT and fits in that connector, allowing you to accidentally start the car in gear if you aren’t careful. 

My question to you is: Does the car start WITH or WITHOUT the clutch engaged (engaged=no foot on pedal)? If you are going to test this, please be certain to put the transmission in NEUTRAL.

If it starts either way, then that connector in your picture is probably that bypass switch.

I will definitely get the wiring done for the fog light relay. I think I’m all good with the ignition. 
Before issue: started with clutch pedal floored only. 
During issue: no start either way. 
After fixing the wiring pictured: starts with clutch pedal floored only. 

Quick question on the brake adjustment. I should be able to test whether the brake pedal will get stiff again with just engine running and pushing the brakes randomly while idling, right? There’s no reason for me to drive around to see if the pedal is going to harden up again is there? My thinking is that if it built up the pressure from the MC not returning to full rest position, then I should be able to duplicate issue or call it resolved while sitting safely in my driveway. Assuming it’s not a vacuum issue. Your thoughts?

Then you have correctly repaired the Clutch Neutral Safety Switch.

I say that knowing that for many, broken IS “fully repaired”. The thing is a PITA to replace when it breaks, so as I think I mentioned, for many it gets jumpered and that’s it.

What’s odd about your setup is that the switch and its electrical connector are actually ON TOP of the clutch pedal, on my TC and as shown in the manuals. The grey connector in the picture that you repaired should be the bypass. But I guess none of it matters as it works properly.