You mean the one that connects between the pedal and the equalizer, right? The manuals claim you can remove it without pulling the pedal assembly out, but that wont work if it is rusted / frozen, which is the only reason you would want to replace it anyway.
The pedal assy is held on by only 3 bolts, but they are a real PITA to get at. When I replaced my cable, it took me about an hour to get the petal assy out, and 1/2 hour to get it back in, and all this time was spent with my head stuck up under the dash. If I had to do it again, I would probably pull out the drivers seat (very easy.. under 5 min work) to give better access to under the dash. You will need a bunch of long extensions and universal joints to get at the bolts, and prepare to swear a lot.
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Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
