Boost Controller Q

Well my TC is back on the road now, this time it's blowing through a little larger hairdryer than the old IHI. At 10 psi this thing feels at least as fast as it was @ 18 psi with the IHI. Instead of dropping off around 5000 RPM it just keeps flying until I run out of guts. I really can't wait to see what it'll do at 20 psi or so. The only problem is it's not very loud. I think I'm gonna make a hole in the housing so it'll whistle a little more [Image: wink.gif] There's more lag than before, but the turbo is still plenty useable around town.

I've got a problem though, as much as I adjust the boost controller I can't get more than 10 psi of boost. I'm starting to think I hooked this thing up wrong. I basically split the hose that connects the turbo to the wastegate and attached a vacuum tee inline leading to the boost controller. So is it hooked up wrong or is my boost controller just not up to the task? It's ok to tell me I'm a moron, go ahead [Image: smile.gif]



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'88 Thunderbird TC
ATR 3" cat back, Sac. Mustang 3" DP, Tiny Avenger boost controller, K&N cone in fenderwell, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, Perf. Techniques T03/T04E turbo, KB Trac Kit
'86 Mustang GT
usual bolt on stuff

Sam, If I follow what you said, the boost controller is hooked up wrong. See the article on installing the Gillis valve in the Tech Articles section. Basically you run your boost source (vacuum tree or the compressor outlet) to the pressure side of the controller valve. The other side of the valve goes to the wastegate actuator

My T-3 is a whole lot louder than the IHI. I think the porting work has something to do with it.

Well you were right Pete. I hooked it up the way you said and ... 28 pounds of boost? Holy $#! I guess I got my intercooler sealing problems licked, the ole TC didn't even whimper after 4 or 5 runs in the high 20s fiddling with the boost controller. Something tells me I put it on backwards regardless of what the arrows on the valve say. The comedy never ends! Pete thanks for the quick response, join me as I show sympathy and amiration to my rock solid stock 140K engine and head gasket


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'88 Thunderbird TC
ATR 3" cat back, Sac. Mustang 3" DP, Tiny Avenger boost controller, K&N cone in fenderwell, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, Perf. Techniques T03/T04E turbo, KB Trac Kit
'86 Mustang GT
usual bolt on stuff

Sam, I wish I was there for a ride. Be careful with those high 20 boost numbers. Just make sure it isn't detonating on you

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

Don't worry, I was just making some test runs trying to adjust the boost. I was actually cringing when my neck snapped back in the seat I saw the boost gauge peg near 30 psi. Not planning on repeating that any time soon but it sure was fun [Image: smile.gif]

Well, I'm still having problems. I can't adjust the boost @ all. It's acting like there is no regulator installed no matter what I set the valve at. Outlet vac. hose from the turbo is routed to the inlet on the valve, outlet of the valve is routed to the wastegate. I did try reversing the boost controller without any change. Today while fooling with it I spiked the boost @ 28 psi and started blowing blue smoke out the exhaust [Image: eek.gif] Luckily I don't think I did any permanent damage, but needless to say I'm a little gunshy about blowing something up until I can figure out what's up. Any ideas? I'm thinking about just hooking up the stock BCS, or buying another boost controller

Sam, What kind of valve is it? My son has a cheap Brass valve on his and it has almost no range of useable adjustment, it's all or nothing. You might take it apart and see if it's dirty, or stuck

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

I have a Tiny Avenger bleed valve also. I don't like it. Way too touchy. I have the more expensive of the 2 he offers. It has a big black knob that you must pull up to adjust and then snap down to lock it. I put a T in the wastegate line and have that running into the valve. The oulet side of the valve just vents into the air. It moves around 5-8 psi per 1/3 turn. It almost sounds to me like your wastegate isn't working. It doesn't matter where you have the bleed valve set if the wastegate doesn't open it will boost through the roof.

I think the wastegate is working, because without the valve boost was topping at 10 psi. I'm using the dial-a-boost Tiny Avenger valve, the $55 one. I've tried hooking this thing up 6 different ways from Sunday and I'm starting to feel a little incompetent. Does it really matter where I hook the outlet of the valve up? Should I tee off of the line and vent to the atmosphere or just install the valve inline and vent it to the wastegate? Glenn, on your valve do you raise or lower the boost by turning the knob in the "+" direction ? I know this valve worked fine before, don't know why it should be different with the new turbo?

If the "+" is clockwise then that increases boost. I just have mine vented into open air. Did you possibly cause the wastegate line to leak when you sliced it? Try to go back to a solid line and see if it holds the pressure down. Close the valve all the way. Counterclockwise on mine, and see if you blow air through it. If it is all the way closed no air should go through. If the valve doesn't allow air through when fully closed then check all of the lines before and after the valve. One of them might be loose or is the vacuum T cracked.

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Glenn 88TC
current mods (14.096 at 97.29mph): ported & polished big valve head(1.89/1.59), ranger roller, gutted upper and ported lower intakes, t3/t4 turbo, MSD 6al, MSD Launch Control, K&N filter, Walboro 255 pump, Kirban adj. fuel reg., ATR header, full 3" exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflow muffler, Star stage III ceramic clutch, Tiny Avenger bleed valve

Mods in progress (have, just not on yet): 65mm throttle body, 42lb. injectors, Taylor pro wires, 4.10 gears, Spearco intercooler, Nitrous system