TgrPrl
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Joined:
Feb 2002
Rochester, NY
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Hi there - I think my mechanic is onto something, but we need your help still.
He bypassed the boost control selenoid (and hooked the vaccume lines together) that I replaced and the car builds the 15 lbs of boost it is supposed to.
#1 - what controls the boost control selenoid? (the one located next to the passenger side front fender behind and under the air box)
#2 - can you leave the booost control selenoid bypassed ?
Any advise you have is greatly appreciated!
1988 Black TC - Stock for now.
155K on the odometer.
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Jeff K
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Milwaukee, WI
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#1 - The PCM
#2 Yes..... this isnt a "new" trick. This has been around for many years. Ususally connecting the hoses together gives 17 to 18 psi. A Butt splice between the hoses restricts air flow and gives typically 15 or so psi. Be aware the factory boost gauges are often inaccurate.
Jeff Korn
88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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xcrunnerbd
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Joined:
Oct 2006
Woodland, MI, USA
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The computer controls the BCS, thru the plug. But only when the fuel switch is on premium. When it is on reg. BCS does nothing.
Yes, the BCS can remain bypassed. Do you have power running to the BCS? Perhaps now is the time for the Gillis 
Project 13 sec. / 30mpg in '88 TC 5Speed : 15.91@89mph / 32+ mpg
On The Car: KN cone, 2-stage Gillis@ 15psi wired to fuel switch, Kirban AFPR @ 39psi, Walbro 255 HP FP, 130A 3G Alt., Full 3" Stinger Exhaust incl. cat. no muffler,
Shelf: .48 T3, ported E6, BPV
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TgrPrl
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Joined:
Feb 2002
Rochester, NY
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Thanks so much! He did confirm the power is going to the BCS. He couldn't believe the difference in the power! I will oder the Gillis today! Going to pick up the car during lunch. Can't frigging wait! Next question. Which Gillis do you all recommend for a stock set-up? Is the basic one good?
Yippeeeee... I am stoked.
1988 Black TC - Stock for now.
155K on the odometer.
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Yep, the basic one is the one you want..
1988 Turbo Coupe - A237 cam, K&N Cone, T3(.60-.63), 255 Walbro, Gillis BV, gutted and knifed intakes, ported e6, 3" elbow/dp to dual 2.5s, Kirban and spearco fmic.
Up next, ported head, t3/t4 upgrade.
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TgrPrl
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Joined:
Feb 2002
Rochester, NY
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I just pulled up my email from Ric Gillis -
The standard BoostValve kit for the TC is the one he recommended too!
1988 Black TC - Stock for now.
155K on the odometer.
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TgrPrl
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Joined:
Feb 2002
Rochester, NY
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This one, right?
Manual Boostvalve kit
Includes Boostvalve manual boost controller and all necessary parts and instructions to complete installation.
1988 Black TC - Stock for now.
155K on the odometer.
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Pete D
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Joined:
Apr 2001
Northern OH
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TgrPrl
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Joined:
Feb 2002
Rochester, NY
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So installing the Gillis is better than leaving the BCS out of the loop, right?
Can you explain why this is (just curious).
Thanks
1988 Black TC - Stock for now.
155K on the odometer.
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Cerebral
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Joined:
Jul 2008
Jacksonville, Florida
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Because the gillis is adjustable, just unhooking the bcs gives you a set amount of boost. And then you can put it in your signature, and it makes you look cooler.
1987 Automatic TC- parts car
1987 5 Speed TC, K&N on Vam,Boost controller, T3, Bob's Log, Stinger 3 inch exhaust with Magnaflow, FMIC, Forge Dual Piston B.O.V., Ranger Roller, Esslinger Adjustable Pulley, Boport Drop in Valve Springs, Pyro Pete Clutch
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