boost contoller

would a boost contoller from tiny avengers be a good choice or would a gillis?

I don't have any experience with Dave's valve (Tiny Avenger). I am partial to Ric Gillis' valve, I have two of them installed. In looking at a picture of the TA valve I can't tell if it's all metal or if the valve body is plastic. Call Dave and ask. I would have some concerns about the longevity of a plastic valve, especially if you mount it under the hood. As far as flexibility goes, Ric's valve can be mounted under the hood or inside the car, just as the TA valve can. I've heard some say that the extra lose required to plumb it into the cockpit can slow down the reaction of the wastegate, such that you may get some spiking of boost then it goes down to where you want it. I don't know if this is true or not.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

thanks, my friend has a gillis but he is having boost problems.. probably a vacuum leak.. i will want it under the hood.. do u recommend a upgrade in gear ratio.. maybe 373?

The Gillis is very reliable and Ric is very good to work with if the problem is actually the valve.

I've heard pros and cons on changing ratios. Personally, it's on my list of future modifications.

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NATO Member
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

Don't get Tiny Avenger's valve. I have it and am going to switch to the Gillis valve. I seems to work much better. Mine is too touchy when adjusting it.

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Glenn 88TC
current mods (13.809 at 98.48mph): ported & polished big valve head(1.89/1.59), ranger roller, gutted upper and ported lower intakes, t3/t4 turbo, MSD 6al, MSD Launch Control, K&N filter, Walboro 255 pump, Kirban adj. fuel reg., ATR header, full 3" exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflow muffler, Star stage III ceramic clutch, Tiny Avenger bleed valve

Mods in progress (have, just not on yet): 65mm throttle body, 42lb. injectors, Taylor pro wires, 4.10 gears, Spearco intercooler, Nitrous system

Originally posted by Pete D:
I've heard some say that the extra lose required to plumb it into the cockpit can slow down the reaction of the wastegate, such that you may get some spiking of boost then it goes down to where you want it. I don't know if this is true or not.

I don't have my TA valve mounted in the interior and it still spikes. It usually spikes 3-4lbs. higher than where I have it set and then settles in. This prevents me from running 22-23psi at the track. I can't fuel the 26psi spike so it pings and doesn't recover after settling back to normal setting.


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Glenn 88TC
current mods (13.809 at 98.48mph): ported & polished big valve head(1.89/1.59), ranger roller, gutted upper and ported lower intakes, t3/t4 turbo, MSD 6al, MSD Launch Control, K&N filter, Walboro 255 pump, Kirban adj. fuel reg., ATR header, full 3" exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflow muffler, Star stage III ceramic clutch, Tiny Avenger bleed valve

Mods in progress (have, just not on yet): 65mm throttle body, 42lb. injectors, Taylor pro wires, 4.10 gears, Spearco intercooler, Nitrous system