North American Turbocoupe Organization



Blinking Ride Control
mytbird Offline
Junior Member
#1
The last time I drove the Goldbird, I noticed the Ride control light started blinking after I rounded a curve - blinks 3 times a few seconds apart, then no light for about 10 seconds, repeats the series.

Can anyone tell me what's up?

(Also, the ride control light on Blackbird stays lit all the time now - since we're on the topic, any input here is appreciated too - seems like the birds are collaborating!)

Thanks, Karen
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#2
Goldbird -> Is blinking a code... 3 flashes is a fault in RF actuator/circuit. The TC FAQ at the top of your screen will tell you how to troubleshoot and possibly fix it..

Blackbird -> Sounds like the switch is set to FIRM, or the switch/wiring is bad, and the PRC computer thinks that it is set to FIRM

-Shane
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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mytbird Offline
Junior Member
#3
Thanks Shane -

I should remember to look in the FAQs - on Blackbird, the car feels like its in firm ride, and the switch seems a little funny, so maybe it's just the switch.

I don't work on these issues in the cars (I'm better at replacing interior parts and simple to change out things) - so I'll need to find a Ford dealer or my local shop to give these things a go. Think I could install a new switch, so will have to give it a go.

Do you know if I will do any harm to the cars driving them with these issues in the short term?

Thanks, Karen
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#4
Karen,

It wont do any harm at all. My '87 had a blinking FIRM light for the first 8 or so years that I owned it... You may notice the car rides weird though, as some shocks may be on firm and others on soft
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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T-BirdX3 Offline
Senior Member
#5
Put the switch in the firm location untill you get it fixed, it doesn't blink in the firm position. The blinking drives me crazy, lol.
'88 T-Coupe 5 speed/'88 T-Coupe Auto
'87 T-Coupe 5 speed/'87 T-coupe 5 speed(76k orig mile)
..... and there was light!
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee36...tled-2.jpg
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tr_guy79 Offline
Senior Member
#6
Depending on the problem, it may still blink in the FIRM position. There is actually a signal sent back to the PRC brain to tell it if the actuators were successful in switching to the selected mode. It is simply a voltage signal (ground I think). Depending on the failure problem, the PRC may still blink in the firm mode.

-Shane
3rd Annual Philly Tri-State NATO Meet - http://natomessageboard.com/ultimatebb.p...p=1#000003

'87 - Range Roller 4* adv / 50 trim t04e / Ported E6 / Gutted Knifed intake / Stinger 3->2.5" / Adj. Cam Pulley / Warlboro 255

To Do: PIMP/MS2, FMIC, Bigger Inj
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#7
PRC feedback is a switch in the activator. Open in firm / closed in soft (or the other way around.... cant remember right now). If the activator is bad, they can be easily taken apart and cleaned out / repaired. I think there is info on that somewhere around here. One quick test is to feel the activator while someone switches from auto to firm and back and see if you can feel a "thunk" whenever it switches.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#8
The only failures I've suffered on my TCs relating to the PRC was failure of the front struts. Two of my TCs would not switch back and forth between soft/firm. The activators would work off of the struts, but when installed they would not operate... i.e. the valving mechanism in the struts gave out. I'd have the light blinking three times. One of these was the white car: when it did (sometimes) switch to firm, it was like riding with no fluid in the struts at all (BOUNCY). I took them off and replaced with Monroe Sensatracs.

GOOD LUCK!
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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