North American Turbocoupe Organization



Bird's New Motor
**PathogeN** Offline
Member
#1
New motor is running OK now that I've resolved all the fuel issues, but has developed (much to my dismay) what sounds to be a mild case of rod knock. I plan to tear into it obviously but I need some info before hand. The only things I didn't do "ideally" in the rebuild are: I reused pistons and rods (were fine) and I resued rod bolts (tested, fine). I'm thinking a rod bolt is stretched or something probably (knock is on one hole only). Also, whats involved with tearing into the bottom end with motor in the car? If i drop the sway bar I should be able to drop the pan right?

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1987 TC 5-Speed Red/Red Leather | 5.0 Mustang T-5, FRPP Cobra Clutch, Esslinger Aluminum Flywheel | FRPP Valve Springs & Hardened Valves | Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump | Gutted Upper, Knifed Lower, Knifed TB | Gillis @ 18 psi, Bosch Bypass Valve | K&N Cone, VAM Mod | ETS Timing & Accessory Tensioners, Unorthodox Pulleys | No cat, ETS 3" DP, Dual 2.5" Dynomax | IHI w/Teflon Impeller | 2 Piston Brembo Brake System & 4-Channel ABS Piggyback Chip | HPM Rear Lower Control Arms, Griggs Front A-Arm Kit & Lightened K-Member | Eibach Pro Kit Springs | KYB AGX Adjustable Struts, Tokico Shocks, Koni Quads | Max. Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates | PST Polygraphite Bushings | Lincoln LSC Front Sway bar | Rewound Ford P.I. Alt, 185 Amps | 2000W Infinity/Clarion Pro Audio IASCA Competition Audio System
88 Turbo Coupe (White)
88 Psudo Coupe (Silver LX)
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Joey Hager Offline
Member
#2
I recently fried the #1 piston in mine and had to tear into it.. I left the motor in the car and I just jacked the engine up and I didnt have to take the oil pan all the way out... just down.. it was tight doing that but not to bad.... You will have to jack the engine up and probably remove the sway bar.. but once you get the oil pan off its no biggie....
88 turbo coupe, black 5-speed all options but leather, K&N cone, 3 in. downpipe, no converter into 2.5 in. one chambered flowmasters, 86' GT stainless tips, gillis boost contoller, 3.73s, 16x8 (knightrider) rims, 2 JL audio 15s in trunk, punch 800
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**PathogeN** Offline
Member
#3
What about the crank? Anyone ever installed one bench-press style from the bottom? If i have to end up replacing rods can it be done from bottom too or do i *have* to install pistons top-down?
88 Turbo Coupe (White)
88 Psudo Coupe (Silver LX)
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Pete D Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Pistons have to be installed top down WITH a ring compressor or you will bend/nick/break rings. Never reuse the stock rod bolts. If you broke/stretch a rod bolt, you should pull the rod and have it speced as the cap may have got tweaked. Are you sure it isn't a lifter problem? Have you tried an atomotive stethescope to locate the noise?

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
"The nice thing about each new day is nobody ever used it before" Barnaby Jones
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS. Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges.140 mph Motorsports Speedo New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 255 HP pump and Kirban adj FPR, T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.
Pete Dunham
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**PathogeN** Offline
Member
#5
Not yet, but It appears to be coming from the bottom end. Could a lazy lifter be making that noise?

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1987 TC 5-Speed Red/Red Leather | 5.0 Mustang T-5, FRPP Cobra Clutch, Esslinger Aluminum Flywheel | FRPP Valve Springs & Hardened Valves | Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump | Gutted Upper, Knifed Lower, Knifed TB | Gillis @ 18 psi, Bosch Bypass Valve | K&N Cone, VAM Mod | ETS Timing & Accessory Tensioners, Unorthodox Pulleys | No cat, ETS 3" DP, Dual 2.5" Dynomax | IHI w/Teflon Impeller | 2 Piston Brembo Brake System & 4-Channel ABS Piggyback Chip | HPM Rear Lower Control Arms, Griggs Front A-Arm Kit & Lightened K-Member | Eibach Pro Kit Springs | KYB AGX Adjustable Struts, Tokico Shocks, Koni Quads | Max. Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates | PST Polygraphite Bushings | Lincoln LSC Front Sway bar | Rewound Ford P.I. Alt, 185 Amps | 2000W Infinity/Clarion Pro Audio IASCA Competition Audio System
88 Turbo Coupe (White)
88 Psudo Coupe (Silver LX)
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Turbobob_dup1 Offline
Member
#6
I had a lazy lifter problem and it sounded like ti was coming from the bottom end.

what it actually turned out to be was improper clearance in the bearings,letting too much oil through hence low oil pressure,hence not good lifter pump up at idle.

This is what I get for letting someone else build my block [Image: redface.gif] Upon rebuilding the block myself later and measuring clearnce"myself" I cured the problem with proper clearance.

Not saying this is your problem , but plenty of options on ideas is good yes.

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More Boost!!
'87 turbocoupe under construction
87 Turbocoupe,T3/T4 turbo,much porting,AFPR,255lph pump,GN cooler,K&N in fender,gutted upper/knifed lower,big valve head,A237 cam ,60mm throttle body,Talon 1G BPV.
4 + 1 = 8!!
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**PathogeN** Offline
Member
#7
Well thats easy enough to check so I'll do that first, thanks for the info. Hopefully I'll luck out on this one.
88 Turbo Coupe (White)
88 Psudo Coupe (Silver LX)
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