North American Turbocoupe Organization



BIG PROBLEM!!!!!!!
deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Ok i put in a home built turbo control and then i got a air leak. sooo i looked for the air leak today and though i found it. Between the intercooler and the throttle body parts. it was cracked under the clamps. went to lowes got an exact replacement. What i havent said yet was when i had the original leak it like started to sputter and jump around at 10 psi. i only have it set to about 12 and it dont get there often. after i replaced the rubber hose it got a whole lot worse. and it happned between 5 and 10 instead of at 10 and it is a whole lot violent. Not shure his online name has something to do with tweety but he was wiht me. What could be causing this? im gonna start checkin vacume lines. i know that they are pretty bad.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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tylerport Offline
Senior Member
#2
One of the most common problems for those symptoms is the hose that connects the Turbo to the Intercooler. Since it is out of sight, it's an easy one to miss. It may be folded over from reinstalling the Intercooler.

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Jim Portteus
NATO Member
86 Turbo Coupe, LA3 w/ Intercooler and Larger VAM, Gillis Valve, 2 1/2" Downpipe to 2" Duals w/ 18" Glasspacks, 245/50R16's, 140MPH Speedo, A-pillar pod w/ Boost and A/F Ratio Gauges and Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter.
Jim Portteus
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deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#3
i know this. but i know for shure that that is not it becasue i spent 5 minutes just getting it to fit right.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#4
i still need help i have no idea what is wrong. i am about to junk the car i am sick of this crap.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
Reply

tylerport Offline
Senior Member
#5
Can you describe your "home built turbo control"? What did you remove? What did you add?

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Jim Portteus
NATO Member
86 Turbo Coupe, LA3 w/ Intercooler and Larger VAM, Gillis Valve, 2 1/2" Downpipe to 2" Duals w/ 18" Glasspacks, 245/50R16's, 140MPH Speedo, A-pillar pod w/ Boost and A/F Ratio Gauges and Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter.
Jim Portteus
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deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#6
i cut the tubes to the factory boost control on the fender wall. then i put in a "hommade" valve. it consisted of 2, 1/4 inch connections into a T wiht a coupler and a valve on the end. i had it set to max at 10psi and i had a airleak and when it got to 10psi and stopped moving it started so shudder and like slow down then speed up then slow down repeat.i found the leak in the rubber coupler between the intercooler and the throttle body. fixed that with a identical one from home depot and it got worse. the shuddeing turned into slamming and at 3 to 5 lbs. so i hooked it back up stock again. and well it got even worse.... as soon as it starts to even spool a little bitt the hole car rocks as if the breaks were pulsating. im am problably goignt o junk the car i cant afford the fixes i just put 700 bucks in for a oil pump and it broke 2 days later. dont know when it will go again and to top it all off the window isnt even glued to the clips anymore. its ashame too the motor was rebuilt recently and the body has problbly about 5 Sq inches of surface rust total. if i cant fix it for under 100 bucks its gone.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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tylerport Offline
Senior Member
#7
Check out this <a href="http://www.turbotbird.com/FAQPage/Vac_Diagram.htm">Vacuum Diagram</a> and make sure you have the hoses hooked up correctly. Also, be sure all the hoses are in good shape (no cracks in them). I'm sure it's something simple. Don't give up just yet!
Jim Portteus
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Glenn 88TC Offline
Posting Freak
#8
Check the hose between the vane meter and the turbo to make sure it isn't collapsing. Squeeze it and see how solid it is. If you can move it easily it is probably collapsing and causing the stuttering problem.

When was the last tuneup? Wires will also cause a stuttering problem under full throttle. If you let up on the throttle a little does it clean up? If so wires might be the problem.

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88TC
current mods: ported & polished big valve head(1.89/1.59), ranger roller, custom upper and ported lower intakes, t3/t4 turbo, powerstroke intercooler mounted full size, 60mm throttle body, R.C. Engineering 42lb. injectors, MSD 6al, MSD Launch Control, MSD 8.5mm wires, K&N filter, Walboro 255HP pump, Kirban adj. fuel reg., ATR header, full 3" exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflow muffler, Star stage III clutch, Hallman boost controller, Flex-a-lite adj. temp switch for stock fans, Weld Draglites with M/T ET Street 26x11.5/15

Coming very soon(ordered and on the way) SDS, 73pph injectors, custom roller cam
NO TC and NO headaches.
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deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#9
Vane meter? and i dont have to be on the throttle for it to do it. i can accelerate normal and if the boost starts to spool it happnes. The diagram is gonna help. i broke the T by the boost buzzer i tried to super glue it back together but i dont think it worked. i did this byt the way after these problems arised. is there a T in a 85 like that?
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
Reply

deadbird Offline
Posting Freak
#10
is there a way i can dis connect the turbo such as ruinning a hose from teh VAM to the throttle body? i want to do this to see what is wrong as i described earlier. and to be able to drive the car i cant even go anywhere unless i accelerate really slow not to start to spool the turbo? would this hurt anything? i did a littel more looking and i am burning oil. and white smoke comes out my pass tail pipe and black out my left? thats funny scince they are linked.and when i shift or tap the gas and when i start it puffs of black smoke comeout. it smells like 2 cycle fuel form my dirtbike. soo i know i got some oil problems. coulb my head gasket be blown? i can set and rev the engine and it runs fine i have some idol problems like it wont untill it is warmed up. it will start and go to 2000 then back down to 1000 for about 2 sec and then stalls. after it warms up it idols normaly every little bit it tries to stall then it is fine. my mom says if i ont have it fixed my wed i have to get rid of it.
1987 5 sp.
- 4.6 2v swap.
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