Belt Tensioner/Squeal

Hey all,

Since I bought my bird I think the serp. belt tensioner has been out of alignment...it just doesn't line up well, bottom part sticks out more.

Now, as it gets colder, my belts start squealing. They are both newer and in great shape...I figured it was just because of the cold, but even after they warm up, still squealing.

My thoughts are that the tensioner is going and it needs replacing. Would this cause belt squeal? Would like cause a possible loss of power? ( Making the engine work harder ). Does it matter if I get a good used one or a shiny new one?

Thanks guys! -Joe

Bad tensioners on a high mileage motor are fairly common. They wear internally, and then cock themselves just like you are discribing. New ones are still available from Dayco, etc.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)

Can a worn tensioner cause belt squeal from bad belt alignment? Does it decrease power from increased friction?

Is it ok to buy a used tensioner? Or should I just buck up and buy a new one, and how much do they run? thanks, sorry for all the questions.

-Joe

Originally posted by JO346820:
Can a worn tensioner cause belt squeal from bad belt alignment? Does it decrease power from increased friction?

Is it ok to buy a used tensioner? Or should I just buck up and buy a new one, and how much do they run? thanks, sorry for all the questions.

-Joe

Yes.

Not that you'd notice.

A used one would eventually have the same problem.

Last time I bought one new it was pretty expensive...around $50-60.00 as I recall.

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Dan Eaves
88TC 5spd, Crower 5.5" Sportsman Rods, Short Wiseco Pistons bored .030" Over, Ported Head with Polished Combustion Chambers, Gutted & Polished Upper, Ported & Polished Lower, Polished T/B, Ported E6, SVO T3 .63AR Turbo, Bosch Bypass Valve, 3" DP w/No Cat, 2 1/2" DynoMax single cat back w/DynoMax Super Turbo Muffler, RR Cam, K&N in Fenderwell, Gillis Boost Valve, Centerforce I Clutch, Removed A/C, Polished Wheels, Polished Valve Cover, Polished Crank and W/P Pulleys, Walbro 255LPH HP Pump, Kirban Adj FPR, and the DAMN Heater Core is new too !

http://www.geocities.com/wot_turbo/WOT.html

NATO MEMBER (Vice Chairman...if it's a vice...I deal with it)

The problem may be the tensioner wheel, not the tensoiner itself. Best way to tell is with an inexpensive automotive stethoscope. The wheels are replaceable with out replacing the whole tensioner assembly. I've done a couple.

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NATO Member. it's not a vice, it's an obsession
"The nice thing about each new day is nobody ever used it before" Barnaby Jones
88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, mods list at
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