North American Turbocoupe Organization



BCS broke. options?
Andrew Offline
Member
#1
I was replacing the belts and tensioners on my car earlier and noticed that my bcs was coming open at the sealing surface. I took it out of the car for closer inspection and it is completely done. the o-ring seal is torn and the housing has a couple of good cracks in it. I am trying to find a way to get the car back on the road until i get a gillis valve. Can i take the BCS out of the system and run a boost line right to the wg?
I think this would limit me to 10 psi, but im only running medium fuel and havent gotten a boost gauge yet either.
Currently i am getting the check turbo light coming on when i go wot and get to about 5k. The car has also started not being able to idle right. I haven't diagnosed the idle just yet(tps or iac).
I have also recently installed a K&N cone on the car and somewhere in that action i knocked my maf and caused the door to stick, but it is moving freely now. had to take the cover off and am now resealing it. didnt touch a single setting inside.
Thanks for any advice
Andrew
88 turbo coupe. Daily driver
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Andrew Offline
Member
#2
ummm, meant to say it was idling high. about 1500- 2000 sporatically.
Andrew
88 turbo coupe. Daily driver
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
Quote: Can i take the BCS out of the system and run a boost line right to the wg?
I think this would limit me to 10 psi, but im only running medium fuel and havent gotten a boost gauge yet either.
Yes to both questions above.

It isn't going to idle right because the broken BCS is an air leak letting in unmetered air

Fix the BCS and see whats left afterwords
Pete Dunham


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Andrew Offline
Member
#4
Alright, i just took off the lines going the BCS and capped them both. The car is still overboosting. The idle is much much better now.
I think the waste gate is not opening. The sky has opened up so i have to wait til tomorrow to see if the wastegate line is no good, or if the wastegate is stuck.
ugh... oh well, i can drive her for the day until i get a chance to look at it again.
Andrew
88 turbo coupe. Daily driver
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4cammer72 Offline
Posting Freak
#5
you dont want to cap them!!!! you want to splice them together... a electrical butt connector will work just fine for this..... without them connected together the wastegate isnt getting a signal from boost to open....
88tc (sold) but keeping an eye out.
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Andrew Offline
Member
#6
do what?????? lol
I think we are talking about different things. The boost line going from the turbo to the wastegate is in exactly the same spot it has always been. I simply removed the bleed mechanism that the boost control valve was......
I think i have done what I was aiming to do. If i somehow missed the mark please let me know.
Andrew
88 turbo coupe. Daily driver
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
Disconnect the two lines that go to the stock (broken) BCS from the BCS. Leave the other ends of those hoses where they are. Connect those two disconnected ends together using a blue electrical butt splice connector. This will give you around 16-17 psi of boost max and insure that there is a boost signal going to the WGA.

Quote:Alright, i just took off the lines going the BCS and capped them both. The car is still overboosting. The idle is much much better now.
What you have there means there is no boost signal going to the WGA, so it's going to overboost. It does, however, eliminate the leaking stock BCS, so the car should idle better.
Do what 4cammer72 and I described and all will be good, unless the WG truely isn't operating. You won't know until you do what we described
Pete Dunham


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Andrew Offline
Member
#8
are you saying that where the two lines are connected to the t and that t screws into the turbo is creating vaccumn?
I really do need to look up how this system works better.
Im going to try it if this rain will hold out
Andrew
88 turbo coupe. Daily driver
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Andrew Offline
Member
#9
alright, that officially did nothing, or was counter productive. The car seemed to spool faster as i was making the check turbo light come on at about 3500 rpm......
I picked up a boost gauge to verify whether the check turbo light is coming on right. the rain has hit again, so we shall see if i get time to try it.
Andrew
88 turbo coupe. Daily driver
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#10
Is it really overboosting or is the overboost light (TURBO) & buzzer coming on. VERY common for water to get into the overboost switch and cause it to trigger light/buzzer at much lower boost than the designed 17.5 psi.

Disconnecting both lines from the BCS and capping each will result in full boost signal going to WGA limiting boost to 9.5 psi if WGA/WG is working.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
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