North American Turbocoupe Organization

battery STILL draining.....
crich Offline
Junior Member
A few months ago I made this same post. Still cant figure it out. Car sits over night in below freezing weather. When I get in the firm ride light is blinking with a buzzer sounding each time the light blinks. Tried new battery, new cables, new ignition fix. I also tried unhooking the battery overnight but when I hook it up in the morning same thing with the light/ will crank though. Also the turn signals will work without key in the ignition but once I crank the car I can shut it off and all these things will not reappear. Also, one of you posted that it may be the ABS relay. I noticed that this relay "clicks" with the light/buzzer. Tried unhooking it last night and when I got to the car this morning battery was completely dead..had to get a ride home..wouldnt even jump off. Tried jumping it but the cables were archin so bad looked like we were welding. I need serious HELP!!!!!

Jeff K Offline
This problem needs systematic troubleshooting. Remove the neg cable from the battery, and charge the battery fully. Use a DMM to measure the current draw with the key off. Connect the DMM between the batt neg post and the neg batt cable. Depending on how many accessories your car has (keyless entry, alarm, stereo / extra amps, etc) drain should be 20 to 50 mA (milliamps). If drain is over 50 to 100 mA, you need to start removing fuses, disconnecting circuits to find the source of the drain. Remove / replace every fuse while watching for the drain to drop to a normal value. If you find a fuse that reduces the drain, you will have to trace down everything on that circuit to find the actual problem. If pulling fuses doesnt do it, pull the power feed wire off the alt output stud, and remove the regulator plug to see if either of these causes the drain. If you still havent found the source of the drain, it is time to start disconnecting circuits fed only by fuse links to look for the drain. You REALLY need an EVTM to effectively troubleshoot a problem like this.

Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 00 Windstar (wifes vehicle)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized

86tc Offline
I just had to replace my battery not that long ago (like a week). It was draining constantly, and took me a week of checking ground wires and other crap, until I finally got a new battery and it was fine. Mine wouldn't jump off, either. I put my old battery in my wife's car and it did the same thing. Somebody told me what it was, but I can't remember what they said. However, it was internally inside the battery. Mine also happened when it was cold here. I'm not sure if this is your problem, but the least you can do is try another battery to check it out, or take your old battery and put it in another vehicle, then try jumping it. If it still doesn't work, it should be the battery itself.

'62 Ranchero (in progress...again)
'72 Gran Torino Sport (for sale/trade)
'76 Honda CB750 (for sale/trade)
'88 Yamaha Blaster Race 4-wheeler (for sale/trade)
'89 Lincoln Town Car (for sale/trade)
'92 GMC Safari Conv. Van (for sale)
'94 Pontiac Bonneville
'96 GMC Jimmy

Martin Offline
Senior Member
In your post, it says that the light and buzzer are simutanious. Is this withy the key off or on? Regardless, a quick dirty check for the circuit is, while your car is doing the light/buzz, start pulling your fuses out until it stops. When it stops put the fuse back in to make sure it starts again. Tis rules out pulling a fuse at about the same time the problem decides to cancel itself. Nothing more frustrating then chasing the wrong circuit. Once you have isolated the fuse, or as already mentioned, one of the fusible link feeds, now you have the circuit in hand to chase down. I do not have my electrical diagrams with me, but I am sure that if you post which fuse or fusible link is feeding this, there will be an answer as to what the circuit does from one of the board members.

Stock 87, no mods, (well a little on the turbo boost (-: Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, FLy Low
Stock 87, no mods, Black with the grey interior.
Boost High, Fly Low

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