ball joints done

Well, the ball joints are done, along with outside tie rod ends, and it seems the car is handling just a little tighter than what it had been. Any way, I got it done, and I figured I'd share how I did it with everyone for future reference.
Well, the passenger side was much easier than the d/s because of experience. The d/s, I cut it with a grinder, and heated it with a little propane torch, all seemingly to no good. So I got the idea to put the other floor jack underneath the control arm, and raise it until there was a good bit of spring compression. I had cut the thread of the bolt most of the way off with the grinder which made it easier to hit. So I took the three pound hammer with a short little handle on it and proceeded to whack away. D/S took quite a few swings, while the P/S only took 5 or 6, and the ball joints dropped right out. Then with the new ones, I pushed them in a little ways and then pounded them in with the hammer. Had to take EVERYTHING off the control arm, and the spindle off the strut too. Pain in the ass, but it got done.
If none of this makes sense to anyone, let me know, and I'll re-write it.

Did you have the wheels aligned afterwards?

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88 TC X 2, 86 SVO, Main TC with K&N, 3"DP to 2.5"duals through Dynamax, Ric valve at 17+ and disconnected KS.
Elite Bodega 16" chrome wheels. Autometer pod w/ A/F and Vac/boost gauges. New engine: Total Seal rings and TRW pistons, ported and polished head w/ cc'd chambers,1.59"exhausts, SS valves, gutted upper, knife edged lower, A-230 cam, Race Engineering Adj Cam Sprocket, Crowlers, ARP head studs, and rod bolts. Walbro 190 pump and T-3. Centerforce II, KB subs and jack rails.

No, I screwed the tie rod ends exactly back to where they were, 17 turns right back to the nut, it pulls a little to the right, so I'm gonna check the air pressure and if that's not it, then I'll get the front end aligned.