North American Turbocoupe Organization



Bad Ride after suspension work
Entropy1988 Offline
Junior Member
#1
Hi, I'm restoring my 1988 TC that I bought new from the dealer in 1988.  Anyway, I've been having some work done to it by others since I'm have limited time.

I recently had the rear suspension worked on. New springs and urethane bushings installed on stock rear control arms. Also had the NOS quad shocks changed too.

I drove it today and it feels as if it doesn't move the ride is real bad, feels as if the suspension is binding and not moving very freely.  Any suggestions beside taking it all apart ?

I was contemplating replacing the rear lower control arms with the aftermarket ones from Maximum Motorsports but then the springs have to be changed again to Mustang springs etc. 

I'm wondering if I may have a shock that's frozen one of the ride control ones. Anyway, I'm open for suggestions on what to check first.  Also, any suggestions on a replacement clutch ?
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
A few possibilities: 1) The poly bushings you had put on are too "hard". Poly comes in different "hardnesses" (durometer hardness). 2) Especially if "hard" bushings, you can not use them for both ends of the lower and upper arms or the suspension will bind. Common to use poly bushings for the lower arms and "regular" softer bushings for the upper arms or a poly bushing at 1 end of the upper arms and "regualr" bushings at the other ends of the upper arms.
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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Entropy1988 Offline
Junior Member
#3
I'm going to take it apart this weekend and take a look.  The urethane bushings were installed in the lower control arms only. However, there could be a problem with the shocks. They could be frozen which I will check out. 


Perhaps it might be better to put the Rubber bushings back in.  I believe I may know where to get some.  Anyway, I will disconnect the shocks in the rear and see if the suspension moves like it should. 

Is there anything I need to know about using the KYB replacement shocks which will delete the ride control ? 

Thanks for your help.
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andrewjs18 Offline
Administrator
#4
(07-06-2019, 12:41 AM)Entropy1988 Wrote: I'm going to take it apart this weekend and take a look.  The urethane bushings were installed in the lower control arms only. However, there could be a problem with the shocks. They could be frozen which I will check out. 


Perhaps it might be better to put the Rubber bushings back in.  I believe I may know where to get some.  Anyway, I will disconnect the shocks in the rear and see if the suspension moves like it should. 

Is there anything I need to know about using the KYB replacement shocks which will delete the ride control ? 

Thanks for your help.

probably wouldn't be a bad idea to look into using mustang shocks if you're going to replace them as it opens up a vastly larger selection. if you go this route, you'll probably want to buy shock brackets so that the mustang shocks get mounted lower as the mustang shocks are 2-3 in shorter than factory thunderbird shocks.

check out this page: https://www.coolcats.net/modifying/shocks_struts.html

I sell the shock brackets here: https://tbirdcougarparts.com
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Entropy1988 Offline
Junior Member
#5
Found the lower rear control arm front rubber bushings (oval) but having having a hard time finding the lower rear control arm bushing. Got the oval ones for the front but not the round ones for the rear of the arm.  Any suggestions ?
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Entropy1988 Offline
Junior Member
#6
Apparently the new bushings seem to be the problem here. I'm going to switch over to the Energy bushings. If you notice the energy bushings have the center piece that is out of the bushing before you install it etc. Anyway, let you know the results when I get done with it.
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RC Martin Offline
Posting Freak
#7
I rebuilt everything with KYB and all Energy Suspension, every mount and bushing replaced. Used rubber in one place, per Maximum Motorsport recommendations, at the rear upper to axle side. My front suspension is outstanding, stiff and sharp in turns and it soaks up speed bumps and drainage gutters. The rear however is overly stiff and makes a loud chirp if hit straight on with a curb or driveway. I haven't been able to find the chirp or get rid of it with silicone spray on the spring seats or anywhere else. That being said with 4 all new shocks in back it grips the road noticeably better under low traction, although my quad shocks were leaking and shot when replaced.

I would be very curious as to what you find that works best.
Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Bright Canyon Red TuTone, Desert Tan Interior; 1 of 7 in 1984 according to Marti
   Rebuilt, 3-Angle Valve Job, SYB37 "OE" Cam
   Full 3" Stinger Exhaust to Flowmaster 40, Gnari FMIC/Recirc/BPV, MBC @ 15psi, RF-E6 Manifold, Remote-Mount TFI, PC1 and Flowed 35# Injectors, Inline Walboro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
   Rebuilt Suspension -- KYB & Energy Suspension
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Entropy1988 Offline
Junior Member
#8
Well, the stock oval bushing for the front of the lower rear control arm are a available but its a mustang part I believe. Can't locate a rubber stock bushings for the rear bushing on the rear lower control arm. Perhaps a Mustang one will fit there as well. I may try a new set of rear control arms from CHE. They come in the proper length and have urethane bushings etc. Right now my focus is on the other Turbo Coupe I just bought which has some electrical issues. I will let you know on the suspension very soon. How does the car handle with the KYB's because I was going to try a set of those? I really hate to lose the ride control etc, but I drive it in "firm" all the time anyway so what the heck.  The shocks are pretty old, I replaced them back in the mid 1990's with the factory stock replacements.
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RC Martin Offline
Posting Freak
#9
My setup can be harsh, at speeds of ~50mph you feel every crack in the pavement and it jolts the whole car. Good for road feel and sport driving, not so good for comfort. If there were do-overs I would consider going a different route. For casuals like me, I am really missing a tech article explaining the inter-compatibility of the fox and sn95 stuff people us, so I stayed all stock with the limited options and opted to rebuild everything. For example, the brackets at https://tbirdcougarparts.com/ let you run different rear shocks.

I also did not replace any springs since they all looked good, so all 4 are still original. Maybe I should try new springs and maybe MM/CHE rear upper arms or something?
Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Bright Canyon Red TuTone, Desert Tan Interior; 1 of 7 in 1984 according to Marti
   Rebuilt, 3-Angle Valve Job, SYB37 "OE" Cam
   Full 3" Stinger Exhaust to Flowmaster 40, Gnari FMIC/Recirc/BPV, MBC @ 15psi, RF-E6 Manifold, Remote-Mount TFI, PC1 and Flowed 35# Injectors, Inline Walboro 255HP, Kirban AFPR
   Rebuilt Suspension -- KYB & Energy Suspension
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