North American Turbocoupe Organization



Back flush adaptors
Robert Camp Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Back flush adaptors.

$12-$15

All item purchased at Ace Hardware
PVC Schedule 40 Reducing Bushing, 1 1/4 x 3/4 female pipe thread (Charlotte Pipe & Foundary 438-167)
For lower radiator hose, this is a little big for a new hose but could be turned down to fit properly. It fits a streached out older hose fine.
PVE Schedule 40 Reducing Bushing, 1 x 3/4 female pipe thread (Charlotte Pipe & Foundary 438-131)
For upper radiator hose, fits new and old fine.
Brass Male Adaptor, 3/4 barb x 3/4 male pipe thread (QestPex F877)
Brass Hose Repair Swivel, 3/4 barb x 3/4 female garden hose thread (Ace 72702)
Short piece of 3/4 garden hose. (Be sure to repair the one cut it out of. <grin>)
2 Stainless Steel worm gear hose clamps.

To back flush the radiator, clamp the larger PVC fitting into the lower hose.
To back flush the block, clamp the smaller PVC fitting into the upper hose.

Hook up garden hose, direct the other block/radiator hose to a convienent discharge under the vehicle.

Parts
http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...8_1832.JPG
Assembled
http://natomessageboard.com/uploads/0000...8_1833.JPG
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Um this wont work for back flushing the block, unless you dont run tstat. They are designed to open at a set temp.

Now if you mounted it to the heater line on the housing it will work.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Ryan H Offline
Posting Freak
#3
It would work fine if you mounted it to the heater core output line. Mounting it to the heater line on the thermostat will accomplish nothing because it is still before the thermostat. Either way, if you run the car long enough, the water will get up to temp regardless of fresh water running through it.
'88 TC Smile Walbro 255HP, Stinger FMIC, PIT BOV, Pro 5.0, Kirban, RR cam, FRPP strut tower brace, T3
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trashline Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Quote:Originally posted by Ryan H:
It would work fine if you mounted it to the heater core output line. Mounting it to the heater line on the thermostat will accomplish nothing because it is still before the thermostat. Either way, if you run the car long enough, the water will get up to temp regardless of fresh water running through it.
Not back flushing.

The heater line on the t stat housing is before the tstat, this way you can get heat quicker so you dont have wait for it to open.
Brian

www.BCPCustom.com

06 Cobalt SS
66 mustang 289 C4 handfully modded

Stingers IC install and tbird photos
http://community.webshots.com/user/trashline
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Robert Camp Offline
Posting Freak
#5
Sorry I didn't add that little detail.

Remove thermostat and reattach housing.
Robert Camp
'86 Medium Regatta Blue TC, 5-speed, original owner.
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