North American Turbocoupe Organization



Aux Shaft Interchangablility
thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Is "interchangability" a word? Anyway...

I went digging on my buddies 92 Mustang 2.3l again. This time I pulled the auxiliary shaft, starter, and various other odds and ends.

I can't get a straight answer though. Will the aux shaft fit our cars? It looks like it will, and everything looks kosher... just would like an affirmation.

About the starter... I'm pretty sure it doesn't fit. At least all the parts sites say it doesn't. Anyone have any luck running one of these on a TC?
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Another thought that would avoid another thread...

Will the oil pump work? I was going to grab it, but I wasn't sure cuz the oil pan looks way different...
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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smallblockfloyd Offline
Junior Member
#3
Just looking at the various 2.3's i've had apart I would venture to say the pump will work. The difference should be the pickup tube.

The aux shaft should work as well. I've not heard of a 'difference' in them. If you are really concerned, pull your aux shaft and compare the splines that drive the oil pump. It isn't a hard task.

The starter should work. I thought the mustang and turbo coupes both used t5's, which should mean same starter bolt patterns. Should be a three bolt pattern. Again, compare it. I was under the impression that all t5/2.3 combo's used the same flywheel/ring count/starter combination. Typical ford to do so. cuts costs drastically.

Disclaimer: If my assumptions are incorrect and following their instruction leads to any damage, personal or property it is at your own risk. DX
84 SVO, holset, npr, 55# injectors, engle slider shaft, port work, 3.73 rear cogs.
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#4
that's what I was figuring. The Stang was auto... but I dont' think it makes a difference... does it?
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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BJL Offline
Moderator
#5
the starter should not, but how its actuated may.
2.3t used a single wire going to the starter, they wire was feed power from the large fender mounted relay near the battery. some new 2.3l used a two wire starter, constant power and switch. or in some causes both switched, the two wire i belive is a gear reduction starter, so its smaller lighter and more effiecant if that what you have, i haerd like early 90's 2.3l rangers had them.
i have not tried this my self, this is word of mouth.
this is said only as suggestion and opinion
Brian J Larkin
88TC 320k miles
T3, FMIC ,3in stinger exhaust, gillis,
255 walbro, afpr, 5spd swap,spec clutch, sn95 5 lug,.
89 Cougar XR7 3.8SC Auto
95 Ranger Splash 3.0 auto
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smallblockfloyd Offline
Junior Member
#6
My 90 ranger was a five-speed and it was a single wire fed starter, from the solenoid near battery. The auto and manual starters have different bolt patterns if i do recal, not to mention probably depth, tooth count and a many other things.

Engine stuff should work. all but the crank. There were two types of cranks for the 2.3's. the 'wide' bearings and 'narrow' bearings (main bearings). I've heard different stories from it was to save cost, to it was to save parasitic drag for more power/mpg's, et cetera et cetera. Hypothetically the smaller main bearings will allow it to rev faster, but i've never seen much of a difference. Keep in mind that around the 89/90 model year of the ranger, and 91-93(?) mustangs use the 'narrow' main bearing crank/block combination. you can get 'saddles' or 'spacers' to put narrow cranks into wide bearing blocks. but as far as i know it will not go the other way.

Just another useless tip you may need someday
84 SVO, holset, npr, 55# injectors, engle slider shaft, port work, 3.73 rear cogs.
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thumper Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Quote:Originally posted by smallblockfloyd:

Engine stuff should work. all but the crank.
Good to know. I was thinking on pulling the crank, just in case. Looks like you saved me some work!

As for the starter: it came of an automatic car. It had one wire bolted on and another clipped on with a spade type connector. Its pretty small. Probably a no go then? Autozone had different part numbers listed for this year Stang and my 88TC.
A.K.A. Corey Bennett

1988 TC: white, all options, 5-speed swap, K&N cone filter, "Ranger" roller camshaft, .60/.63 T3, NXS (Gillis-style) Boost Valve, Bosch BOV w/ check valve, Stinger 3" with axle dump (18" glass pack), 95A 3G

Some pictures: http://s639.photobucket.com/albums/uu111/cbennett4041/
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