North American Turbocoupe Organization



Ahh the frustration...
Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#1
Ha ha well after all new Motorcraft plugs, wires, cap rotor, pip, tfi, tps .95v, PCV (no it did not pass air), Walbro 255hp, Kirban at 40lbs base, O2; and 3"dp, cat, ultraflow -2 1/2" exhaust....It passed the roller dyno type emissions way below requirements on 92 with premium switch on, and ran really well that day.
Oh, and I put the cruise stuff back in.

And then I went to bed, just like Groundhog Day only 3 weeks at a time, and I woke up to the same POS the next day.

Same rough random idle, same slow idle A/F meter switching, same slight miss until boost, buzz from the MSD got louder after a couple days just like before.

I also noticed that after beating on it on the way home there was oil on the VC around the filler and breather cap. Smelled a bit of oil burning from it. New PCV was solid.

Of course I come home wanting to sell it and cut my loss. But, you know.

So I'll do a leakdown test at my next earliest convience to see what it's like with the rebuilt head now. Any other ideas?
Sold it Sad*
Reply

Mr.T Offline
Senior Member
#2
Matt,

Total shot in the dark, but you may want to try swapping EEC's with a known good one just to rule out the computer. While you're at it make sure the ground for the EEC is good. Just a thought.

------------------
1985 T-bird TC, 5Spd, Black (The Project)
1985 T-bird TC, 5Spd, Black (The Project II)
1986 T-bird TC, 5Spd, Black (The Show Car)
1986 T-bird TC, 5Spd, Silver (The Daily Driver)
1988 Mustang GT, 5Spd, Black (T-Top)
1989 Mustang GT, 5Spd, Black (Sunroof)
1986 T-bird TC, 5Spd, Black (The Project Car)
1986 T-bird TC, 5Spd, Black (The Show Car)
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#3
If it didn't used to put oil out the fill and breather and now it does, it sounds like the breather is plugged and pressure is building up inside the engine. Are you sure the PCV line is open all the way from the crankcase to the upper intake, same with the breather line from breather to compressor inlet tube?

Next time it idles funny, try removing the fill cap briefly and see what happens.

I'm kind of leaning toward some form of what Mr T suggested, an electrical Jeckle and Hyde somewhere. Have no idea where to start looking. Try swapping the EEC as he suggested.

[This message has been edited by Pete D (edited 04-19-2004).]
Pete Dunham


Reply

Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#4
The EEC I have is an LA2 which was known good from a reliable source. It replaced an lb2 automatic computer, the trans swap done because I hate automatics, and I suspected the torque converter was locking causing the then, and currently same, idle/miss. Electrical is where I'm thinking because of the way the digital gauges still drop when I turn the lights on. Man, where to start on that. But I had sanded and electric greasaed the ground for the EEC.

I'm sure the pvc is open all the way. This engine was very clean even when I first got it, no clogs at all.
I'll definately check the breather to make sure it's flowing.
Sold it Sad*
Reply

Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#5
I forgot to mention, 2 days ago I had to move it, so it ran maybe 5 minutes. I popped the hood for some reason I can't remember and the alternator was noticeably warmer than even the valve cover for sure.
I'm wondering if even though I have enough voltage read at the battery it is still barely providing enough juice..?
Sold it Sad*
Reply

Kev Offline
Posting Freak
#6
How fast do your blinkers blink? This is a direct sign of "not enough juice" either from the alt or the battery. I think that they normally blink around 1 time per second or two. If it takes 5 seconds to blink once, something in the charging system is amiss.
Kev
1988 TC 5spd
Reply

Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#7
Yeah, about 1 time a second.
Sold it Sad*
Reply

Pete D Offline
Administrator
#8
Not sure how to do it but I heard one guy say he added a seperate distinct ground for his EEC to solve some electrical gremlin he had.
Pete Dunham


Reply

fiveliter8 Offline
Senior Member
#9
You should install a noise filter cap across the main power leads of the MSD. MSD's introduce quite a bit of noise into the electrical system. Also, if your gauges drop off, maybe your instrument voltage regulator is on the way out. But I think in the usual case, the gauges read high when turning on accessories. Hope you find the culprit!

------------------
www.stangnut.com
1988 Tcoupe
1984 20th Anniversary GT350 Mustang 'Vert
1984 Mustang GT T-roof
1965 Shelby Cobra Replica
www.stangnut.com
1988Tcoupe-ye will be missed
'09 Flex SEL
1984 20th Anniversary GT350 Mustang 'Vert
1984 Mustang GT T-roof
1965 Shelby Cobra Replica
Reply

Matt S Offline
Posting Freak
#10
Where do I get a filtercap?
The gauge drop is my cyberdyne gauges, not the gauge cluster. If I turn on my lights the a/f meter goes down one bar, and the digital gauges read a point or 2 less. There is a separate 14ga wire that runs directly to those grounds from the batt to the center console.

Pete, the separate ground had crossed my mind after reading the grounding article on merkurencyclopedia. I was thinking of running like 10ga wire from the batt terminal, through the steering boot and across the dash to the computer.

The whole thing is just driving me nuts. Had the car 3 years now, less than 3k miles driven, all the upgrades haven't changed the basic way it runs. It misses most under partial throttle, or in the driveway holding it around 2500 to 3k; and at idle. Any tips for checking the strength of my ignition system besides just seeing how much I get shocked (very subjective!)? The way the A/F gauge acts; when I let my foot off and it goes all lean, then touch the throttle, it goes almost full rich for a few seconds then catches up to start switching. If I give it more gas, it drops to green and switches sooner. This is the 4th TPS and has no flat spots. It also smells really rich on startup for that period the a/f gauge doesn't read anything because the o2 isn't warm enough. If I goose the throttle, sometimes a light unburned gas cloud comes out the tailpipe. This is only the first few minutes of running. I'm also toying with getting a new VAM ($$$).

If I take off from a stoplight and pound it, then come to a stop, it idles a bit high, and smoother, then it starts to miss and idle drops down to about 1k. Almost like I blew out unburned gas for a moment. But the plugs look fine. Another I forgot to mention above is a new motorcraft temp sender on the lower intake, last one threw a code 2 weeks ago.

Enjoying the comfortable seats in the driveway is getting old.
Sold it Sad*
Reply





Users browsing this thread:
1 Guest(s)



Theme © iAndrew 2018 - Software MyBB