Aftermarket oil/water sender q's

Just remember to pick up some 1/8" copper tubing and s--t can the cheapo plastic tubing that probably came with the after markket OP gauge.

It's an electric gauge so no worries there!
I'm using brass fittings..unless there's a problem with brass?

No problem with brass.
The copper tubing is a good idea. That plastic crap is weak and you don't want an oul leak at but especially inside the passenger compartment (the good news is I struck oil, the bad news is it's under the dash) And my copper tubing runs pretty close to the EGR pipe

Here's some pics of what I ended up with for the factory water gauge (aftermarket is in the factory spot on the block) and the 2 oil senders.

Resistance from the top oil can to the manifold is 0.5ohm and resistance from the water T to the block is 1.9ohm...and that's with just the residual water in the hose.

Looks real good. Keep us posted.

I just got an e mail from dave Godfry:

"Dave, Do you still have the thermostat housing and timing pointer available? Michael

Yep, I got them. You can send a money order or check to 122 Tessie Drive, Owens Cross Roads, Al 35763.
The CNC timing pointer is $75, the cast alloy t-stat is $45, both prices include shipping.

Take care,
DG [email protected]"

Matt.... water sender looks good. Only concern I would have with the oil sender "standpipe" assy is that it may have a resonant frequency or frequencies that could get it vibrating / shaking good at a certain RPM or a few different RPMs. A severe resonance could cause stresses on the senders / pipe and lead to some type of failure...... I have seen stuff like that happen before. If you do find it resonates / shakes violently (watch it while slowly increasing RPM), you can try to either damp it out, or hang some weight on it to "tune" the resonance out of the engines RPM range, or somehow provide a second attachment point to the engine near the top of the assy.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)

Here is the setup I use.

Originally posted by Pete D:
Here is the setup I use.

Looks like a carbon copy of mine.... hard to tell from the pic, but does your feed line to the "real" mechanical gauge come out the top (up) like mine does?

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)

Jeff, mine comes out 180* opposite the stock sender, points toward the fire wall. Hidden by the hoses in the picture