North American Turbocoupe Organization



Advice on FMIC piping for Volvo..please halp!!
ianbfromct Offline
Senior Member
#1
Im thinking I can squeeze one last mod in before winter and I have a swap meet volvo FMIC but no pipes...

Ive got a very talented welder/mechanic buddy who's willing to help me with this and will weld up any piping I need to eliminate coupler's where we can. Im running on a stock radiator/ac condenser and hes pretty confident we can make it work without ditching the a/c or stock radiator. Im not sure how it would work but im willing to see if its possible.

-So im looking around Ebay for a decent kit but seems like most of those are Aluminum and we dont have a TIG welder so idk about that route..

-Ive heard of people running exhaust tubing which could be easily welded and painted. Im guessing for the bends just cutting the tubing and using mandrel bends and welding as much as possible. I cant see this costing more than like $40 for piping maybe $40 or $50 for couplers and clamps. And if I wanna run a blow off valve or bypass valve or whatever it is we can run on our cars safely maybe another $75 bucks??
BTW is this what I should be running on a VAM car
http://www.stinger-performance.com/Pics/BOVDual.jpg

-Or just drop the $300 for everything from Stinger?
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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ianbfromct Offline
Senior Member
#2
Also if I were to run a Ranger radiator what would I do for radiator hose's? Can you use the stock fan setup or do you have to run a universal fan that screws onto the radiator?

Also my buddy thinks he should be able to get a TIG welder so I can get aluminum pipes. But with retaining the stock radiator it may be possible to route the pipes from underneath and go up but not sure if its worth it doing it that.
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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zip Offline
Member
#3
I would only use the Volvo unit if its your only option. It will limit the amount of boost you can run because it has plastic end tanks. The Volvo piece was a decent option years back when you couldnt buy a new intercooler for ~$100 off ebay. You could buy a FMIC and piping/couplers/clamps with the $300 you listed.
Matt
86 TC 5spd:QH/SD,Walbro190,CFI 52#, AFPR,WB,FMIC,3"dp to axle, .63 T3, E6,Stock Longblock.
Shelf:N/A 2.3, Die grinder, Carbide Burrs.
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ianbfromct Offline
Senior Member
#4
zip Wrote:I would only use the Volvo unit if its your only option. It will limit the amount of boost you can run because it has plastic end tanks. The Volvo piece was a decent option years back when you couldnt buy a new intercooler for ~$100 off ebay. You could buy a FMIC and piping/couplers/clamps with the $300 you listed.


The Volvo really isnt my only option. It was just convenient that I had one but from what everyone is telling me its not really worth spending the time to put in. I wanna say I found a very very similar one that everyone seems to like using on Ebay. If I wasnt so limited with my funds I would just buy a stinger kit and be done with it. So I located this http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Univers...0654709024

Im guessing with some custom piping kits I can finagle this guy in without too much trouble. I might have to route my Vam filter into the wheel well for extra room im not quite sure. I havent seem a fmic in person on our cars so im just guessing on how the piping is supposed to run.
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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TCKen Offline
Member
#5
I'm not sure what the pipe layout is for the Volvo FMIC, but go to Joe Cool's website (www.jrthecar.com) and look at the Article "Dr. Intercooler" and also the "BigFMICnTurbo" section under the Pictures tab. You can also go to Stingers site (under the NATO Vendor's selection) to get some ideas. The pipes go horizontally under the bumper supports, turn under the inner fenders, and turn up into the engine compartment.

You can use mandrel-bent steel exhaust tubing (either plain or stainless) instead of aluminum to make up the intercooler connections (depending on your welding experiences, dollars, and desired appearance). Somewhat heavier but it works.

Hope this helps.
Ken Humphrey

88TC, Black/Raven, FMIC, 130 amp alternator, MSD ignition, 40Bob manifold with 3" downpipe and Magnaflow 2 1/2" duals, trunk battery with disconnect, CHE rear control arms, Koni Sport shocks, MM front coil-overs and caster/camber plates.
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ianbfromct Offline
Senior Member
#6
Awesome thanks for that link he has a pretty sick setup. Ive got some ideas now. Only thing left is to figure out how to get a stingers bypass/bov mounted in the piping with a flange. I see that he sells this http://www.stinger-performance.com/Pics/...neTee2.jpg

But I was wondering if anyone made anything that could welded/tigged on the piping for maybe more of a solid look.
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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Pete D Offline
Administrator
#7
Don't eliminate too many couplers. They help accommodate engine movement and expansion/contraction in the pipes.
Pete Dunham


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ianbfromct Offline
Senior Member
#8
Pete D Wrote:Don't eliminate too many couplers. They help accommodate engine movement and expansion/contraction in the pipes.


Didnt even think of that thanks Pete. Is it true I will lost some PSI with a FMIC? And so couldnt I just turn up the boost controller to compensate or does it not work that way?
88 5 speed TC
-3" DP,lowered, 255 Walbro, Gillis valve, Cobra R's, bondo/rust, Stinger's PIMP Ecu
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Joe F Offline
Posting Freak
#9
If you've got no leaks or restrictions you shouldn't loose any pressure. Theoretically the larger volume for the turbo to pressurize will increase lag a bit, but IME it's not noticeable at all. Good luck and have fun. Just spend the time to think it out well and your install will be great!
JR's Place - My '87 Turbocoupe
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Huey866 Offline
Posting Freak
#10
You will loose some psi in the intake due to the more cooler (like 1), more condensed, air that is entering the intake. However, cooler air will allow more boost and more agressive timing. Which means, MORE POWAH!!!! If you tune your bov/bpv valve correctly to only release the pressure needed, there will be no noticable lag and the benefits will far outweigh any downside.
87 TurboCoupe - silver, 137k, 5-speed, 3.73 w/ superior axles, Maximum Motorsports suspension, 03 Cobra Brakes, 93 GT vacuum assist, Griggs Subframe connectors, RR cam, Essy Adj. Cam Gear, Boblog, Bob Elbow, .63 T-3, ARP headstuds, Stinger 3in Exhaust, Magnaflow Muffler, AEM gauges, Tweecer RT, Godspeed Omega 18x9
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