North American Turbocoupe Organization



ABS Troubles
danvhp Offline
Member
#1
I ran the ABS codes on my 88TC and 37 was the trouble code that I got. Using information from here and my manuals I was able to trace the problem back to the ABS control module. Do these modules go bad often? Thanks, danvhp
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#2
Did you use the Ford shop manual?

Also, my website gives instructions (from the Ford shop manual) for each trouble code. The link i gave you earlier, just click on the link under the Action Step ID and you'll get steps to troubleshoot the issue.

i ask because there are several tests for this code, and none of which really directly state to replace the module.

To answer your question, they can and do fail, but it is not very common.
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danvhp Offline
Member
#3
I used the factory wiring manual to trace the wiring back to the module and all four wheel sensors measured the same (1100 ohms) at the module connector. I am assuming that since the resistance readings were all the same that the sensors were good as well as the wiring. I don't have a break out box that is described in the trouble shooting, so I just used my Fluke meter.
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#4
Many people do not have a breakout box. Instead, what can be done, is very carefully poke the wires with a small straight pin. The breakout box is pretty much a fancy and expensive box allowing quick access to all the circuits. It also makes finding the circuits easier, but generally the connectors has the pin number stamped on them (partly), and you can figure from there which wire is which pin.
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danvhp Offline
Member
#5
I dug a little further into site that you provided the link to and I am going to continue troubleshooting today. I let you know what I find.
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#6
Just because the wheel sensor resistances are all the correct value of around 1K ohms doesnt mean they are good. Connect a DMM set on AC millivolts to the suspect sensor terminals at the ABS computer connector. Jack up the wheel associated with that sensor so it can spin freely, and give it a good spin. You should get 50 mV to 750 mV, depending on how fast the wheel is spinning. A good spin by hand usually generates around 100 mV to 250 mV. If voltage is low or irratic, inspect exciter ring, and sensor - exciter ring spacing.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 21 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
11 Crown Vic Interceptor
14 Toyota Camry (wifes car)
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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danvhp Offline
Member
#7
I connected my volt meter to the sensor leads at the abs module. It reads about 250mV with the wheel spinning at idle. Sounds like an ABS module to me. Thoughts?
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JT Offline
Posting Freak
#8
After passing that step of the test, did you proceed further with the tests as found on my website?
http://www.tbirdheritage.com/turbocoupew...tepid=DD13

The instructions that are on my website came from the Ford shop manual and are what the Technicians use to repair these issues. i spent a lot of time entering this data in, so i hope it is useful.

You are right, it sounds more and more like a possible ABS module. However, the book doesn't stop at that test, and therefore, i can't say i would know more than the data that was used to put these steps together.
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danvhp Offline
Member
#9
I checked everything that the diagnostic tests called for that you have listed on your site. Everything looks good, so I am down to swapping out the module. danvhp
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