North American Turbocoupe Organization



ABS Relay replacement & other (long)
89gted Offline
Senior Member
#1
This TC has been sitting in my driveway since mid July. Someday it will make it to the street. The motor problems look to be solved. It was running super rich, the spout plug had no effect on timing, and the KOER test wouldn't output, and some other minor electrical problems. This thing was so weird, I finally bought another computer off of ebay and the problems mostly disappeared. Now, if I can just get the power brake to work, I'll start on the ABS. I found the ABS relay to be bad and Autozone had a direct replacement "in stock" for $11.99. They crossed the Ford P/N F8PZ-14N135-CA to their Sorensen MR14. It even works in the standard relay holder bracket. I put jumper wires across the pump motor and it will run. So Obviously I'm just not getting the 12 volts down there. Is the pressure relay built into the brake housing, or can it be replaced?

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88TC, 210K, Black/Raven, Auto (change soon), just purchased from guy who bought it at an auction, only paperwork was the title. Starting from scratch again.

Daily driver is an 89 Probe GT Turbo which I also started from scratch with.
[Image: th_TC016-PaintShiney.jpg]

Another proud dues paying member.

88TC, 210K, Black/Raven, Auto (may change), 140 speedo (by Jeff K), trip computer, 3G, cold air K&N, improved IVR, new AC system, new windshield & 360 tint, new sensatracs all around, interior cleaned up like new, now for the outside....
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Jeff K Offline
Administrator
#2
First off, did you replace the ABS power relay or the hyd. pump relay? The pump relay is the one you want to replace if the pump doesnt run. If you replaced the pump relay, and still no pump running look at the pressure switch.

The pressure switch is a cylinder about 1" dia, 4" long sticking out of MC right next to, and parallel to, the pump motor. Pull the 5 pin connector off the switch, turn key on, and jumper the PK/LB wire terminal to the GY wire terminal. The relay should click, and the pump should run. If this happens, the press switch is bad.

If pump still doesnt run, relay doesnt click, check for 12V at relay GY/Y wire with key in run. Use a test light for this. If no 12 V there, either the IG. sw. is bad, fuse link N is blown, or there is a break in the GY/Y wire between ig. sw. and relay.

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Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 20 psi, forced air intercooler, water injection, bypass valve, Ranger roller cam, subframes, etc., etc.. // 86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP nitrous, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.... // 91 Escort: Bone stock winter car // 02 Taurus Vulcan(wifes car)
Jeff Korn

88 Turbo Coupe: Intake and exhaust mods, T3 turbo at 24 psi, forced air IC, water injection, BPV, Ranger cam, subframes, etc., etc.
86 Tbird 5.0 (original owner): intake, exhaust, valvetrain mods, 100 HP N2O, ignition, gears, suspension, etc., etc.
05 Taurus SEL Duratec daily driver
04 Taurus Duratec (wifes car)
02 Pontiac Grand Prix GT
95 Taurus GL Vulcan winter beater
67 Honda 450 Super Sport - completely customized
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89gted Offline
Senior Member
#3
Thanks for the reply Jeff. It was the pump relay that I replaced. The other relay checked out OK. During the week I can only work on the car after dark in my driveway, so, old wimp that I am, I don't get out there every night. Last night I had about 10 minutes to spare, so I pulled the pressure switch connector and jumpered the connections like you said, and the pump motor ran. I left the key on and plugged the connector back onto the pressure switch, and the pump motor ran. So I either had a bad connection, or a broken/intermitant wire. Tonight I should have more time to check it out again and see if I have power to the brake system. HOPE HOPE
[Image: th_TC016-PaintShiney.jpg]

Another proud dues paying member.

88TC, 210K, Black/Raven, Auto (may change), 140 speedo (by Jeff K), trip computer, 3G, cold air K&N, improved IVR, new AC system, new windshield & 360 tint, new sensatracs all around, interior cleaned up like new, now for the outside....
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Seanm5005 Offline
Member
#4
Something I have found more and more on my 204,950 mile 87 TC is that the dielectric grease that is in the connectors has degraded over the years and the best thing to do when you start have bad connections, is to buy some electric contact cleaner, and also a new tube of electric contact dielectric grease. That should almost be the first step in trouble shooting anything electrical on older cars. Sean
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